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motorcycle rules
MY MOTORCYCLE PASSENGER RULES These are MY
motorcycle rules. They may be different than other rules you have
learned. You may have ridden on other motorcycles. You may have
different riding experiences than I. You may do things differently. This
does not matter to me... This is MY motorcycle. These are MY rules.
Abide by them, and we will live to see another day. Don't... and we may
die. At best you will never ride on my motorcycle again. This I
guarantee. 1) Do NOT mount or dismount the motorcycle unless the driver
has both feet firmly planted on the ground and both hands on the handle
bars and gives you an affirming nod. 2) Do NOT move or wiggle around
during slow speeds; especially while stopping for, or leaving from, a
traffic light. Motorcycle balance is most crucial at low speeds. At high
speeds you can ride no-handed! I'll show you later... 3) If you want to
talk to the driver, tap him on the shoulder on the side you wish to talk
to him on. He may not immediately be able to talk, but will as soon as
he can. 4) If you want to show the driver some scenery or a point of
interest along the ride, tap the thigh on the side facing that area and
point slowly. 5) If a maneuver is scaring or alarming you, close your
eyes and hold on. Squeeze your thighs to maintain seat position. Do NOT
move or wiggle around. 6) Under NO circumstances fight the motorcycle's
lean. This is catastrophic. The motorcycle MUST lean to turn. Law of
physics. Hint: Look over the driver's shoulder in the direction of the
lean. See rule #5. 7) If you see a police vehicle that you think I did
not see, please just lightly tap my helmet a couple times. That is all
that is needed. 8) When slowing or stopping, use the lower portion of
your body to press against the driver while slightly arching your back.
This keeps your helmet from hitting mine. Please don't hit my helmet.
This is very annoying and distracting. If you have any trouble with any
of these rules, please let me know NOW. I will immediately cancel your
ride and find someone else with a greater will to live who may enjoy
being a passenger.
Flip top helmets
are not new but are gaining popularity due to the ability to open the
helmet at long stops, easy of entry and exit, and for some the style
(chrome anyhelmets????). I currently own a HJC flip top and had some
complaints with the helmet and wanted some info/opinions on brands prior
to my next purchase so I sent out a request for info for a poll. Well I
finally stopped receiving emails on the poll and had some time to review
the data and compile some info. I have tried to be fair and not read in
any bias while trying to organize the data and hope this is as fair as
possible. I did receive a ^Óone off^Ô helmet response (not a common
brand for motorcycle riding; Bombardier brand of snowmobile helmet) but
chose not to include it as it was a one off response. If you would like
info on the bombardier brand please send out a list wide request. HJC 8
responses on the HJC flip top. The . time owned was 6 months (1 week to
1 ½ years). The complaints included; wind noise from 3 people, the poor
venting being causing the helmet to be very hot by 5 people, fogging
unless the shield was open by 4 people, and visual changes from the
visior by 3 people. Had a complement on the fit for a Chatterbox, a few
for the one handed operation, and the one on the low price. Fit was
compared to Shoei by a few who had ^ÓShoei heads^Ô and the quality was
complemented by one. Half and half on repurchase of another HJC with
Schubert, Shoei, and Nolan being different brands being considered.
NOLAN 8 responses for the Nolan N100 . time owned was 2 ½ years (1 year
to 3.5 years) Complaints on shield ratcheting mechanism being a little
weak, the process to change the shield (Had 2 comments on having an
extra set of hardware incase parts are lost), some wind noise when in
air stream and the biggest complaint was on the opening of the helmet
requiring 2 hands. Complements on wind noise being lower than most other
flips tried by 2 riders, complements on paint, venting quality and easy
of installation of a headset. No one said they would not buy a Nolan
again but a few commented about buying or trying other brands (toss up
on Shoei, Nolan, HJC, and Scheubert) with the desire to use one hand to
open the helmet^Å at a long light or for a drink on a ride being the
stated reason for a few. SCHUBERT 3 responses for the Schubert Concept
Helmet . time owned was 1 year (6 to 14 months) Complaints about the
poor rain beading on the visor, the depth of the helmet (coupled with
short neck makes hard for rider to do shoulder-checks) and about
condensation on visor in temps below 40 F. Complements on the low wind
noise ("better than most helmets I have owned"), on the venting, on the
quality of the construction and on the integrated sun visor. All three
would purchase it again. SHOEI 2 responses for Shoei flip open helmets .
time owned was 2 ½ years (2 years and 3 years) No real complaints on
noise (one comparison to RF800 (little louder)). Complaint of leaking of
water (greater than the RF800) and one about fit around the top of the
ears. Complements on materials by one. Split on repurchase of Shoei
brand with one who would probably try a Nolan. REVIEW I received quite a
few emails with people stating that they love flip top helmets and would
not change back to full face helmets but would have a full face on hand
for spare/alternate helmet. My opinion is not in the info above and I
have had no real problems with the HJC. Was a good price, ok fit, good
quality materials. My complaint was on the wind noise with the HJC; not
as bad as my open face loud pipe days but not as quiet as my Cl-12 or my
RF900. After reading the reviews my next purchase will be a Nolan BUT
NOT the N100^Å. I am going to purchase the N100E which will be released
in early 2002 that has a one hand open mechanism^Å check out
www.nolan.it under the flip open area. The blue with red and white will
be my first preference if I can get it^Å X-mass will visit late to my
house for me. Hope this will help some people... helped me.
The Mechanic in Action - -) Work
slowly, get more done. So many mistakes and accidents happen because
someone didn't walk to the other end of the bench to get the appropriate
tool. Whether it's a slipped knife that catches a hand, or a slipped
wrench that catches pristine bodywork, wrenching is just like racing;
the harder you try to go fast, the slower and more dangerous you become.
Slow down and do it right, then speed comes invisibly. -) Let the tools
do the work. No points for shredding your fingertips because you didn't
walk 12 feet to get the wrench. No points for making one piece of
used-up 79¢ sandpaper last for 20 minutes. No points for getting that
last ragged cut out of a dull $1 hack-saw blade. -) Wear glasses. It
only takes one metal shaving, or one puff of grit to wreck your vision.
You don't generally need "safety goggles", but put _something_ between
your eyes and machine-tool fling-off. When I started wearing
prescription glasses I never realized how much crap was coming my way.
After six months of garage work I looked at the lenses to discover pits
and erosion from who knows what, all of which was headed straight for my
cornea. -) Wear gloves. We become more sensitive to chemicals as we age,
and moreso with repeated exposure. No need to make things worse - it's a
one-way trip. Brake fluid destroys my skin, but it wasn't always like
that. We all get dirty and greasy but if you're getting things on your
hands that you wouldn't put in your mouth, you should be wearing gloves.
-) Teach your 'seat-of-the-pants' some accuracy. Eye-ball everything,
and then measure to double-check. Get good at estimating distance and
force and you'll be faster and more accurate mechanic even if you always
correct yourself against the measures. -) When cutting or filing metals,
clamp a set of vice-grips to the end of the part that's not in the vise.
It'll damp the squealing vibrations and save your hearing. -) When
soldering, use flux. Many home hobbyists have never heard of it. Wow.
Rosin core is usually preferable (doesn't corrode electrics). Flux boils
and smokes under heat, and it cleans the surface as the solder flows. It
makes the difference between a good connection and a cold solder joint
that has 2k ohm's of resistance. -) Put a piece of tape over the
ignition switch for every fluid you drain out of the bike. Don't take
the tape off until you put that fluid back in. The Tool Chest - -) If
you can't re. the date when you bought your drill bits, throw them away
and buy new ones. They're almost guaranteed to be dull by now, but it's
taken months or years and you can't notice something that slow. -) Keep
a set of left-hand twist carbide drill bits for dealing with broken
bolts. I'm five-for-five with easy-outs breaking at inopportune times.
So far it's two-for-two with a set of left-hand Vermont American short
drill bits. -) Eat lots of Chinese take-out food. And save the 1lb and
2lb plastic containers for nuts, bolts, and whatnot. They even come with
lids that you can write on. -) Browse eBay once in a while looking for
that one tool you want but can't justify. Non-eBay'ers will be amazed at
how often you can get lucky. The Shop - -) A warm, lighted, dry, secure
garage is a luxury. If you've got one, say a prayer for the rest of us
who don't have warmth, or low humidity, or sufficient electrical, or
security, and take an hour to think about the below. -) Build your
work-bench tall. Mine's at 41" and I wish it were taller. Posture and
leverage on the bench are crucial. Raise the bench so that when standing
at it, your hands can be flat on the bench with elbows at a not much
more than 90 degree angle. It'll feel weird until you spend a day there.
Then it makes sense.
You, Me, Phil, Erik, and everybody
else here SURE ain't Nicky. When you think you are at the screaming
limit, that there is nothing left but lowsiding into the dirt, when all
hope is lost, all load is on the front tire...when you are POSITIVE of
all these things...the one thing I am CERTAIN of is...you are WRONG. It
WILL trailbrake more, it will corner more, it will, it will, it will.
That is the part you must BELEIVE. Takes some practice...and some butt
cheek tightening, but it WORKS. The theory is EXACTLY as you've stated,
once you are at 100% use of traction, there is none left to do anything
else. But traction isn't a 100% you live, 101% you crash kinda of thing.
There is a fine, razor edged line in between where....you SLIDE. And
when SLIDING, one wonderful, terrific, butt saving thing happens....you
bleed speed. Thats what sliding DOES....it kills velocity. Cages or
bikes, if you can hold that slide for a quarter second or a half,
without even using the brakes, the act of sliding itself will bring you
back to the safe side of the traction line. I have a rule. When caught
by surprise when the first instinct is standing it up and
braking...DON'T. EVER. Brake...and LEAN. Until the cases are lifting the
rear wheel off the ground and you DO lowside into the dirt....you
trailbrake with the fronts and LEAN. I will lean, and lean, and lean,
and brake, and brake, and brake until I lowside into the pavement
because some day I HAVE to reach that limit, and then go past it...and
then I'll crash. But amazing, during many street mistakes over many
years, it has never happened. I've washed out the front, its slid, and
my line was altered by a foot or two in the process, but I made the
turn, stayed in my lane....and LIVED! The reason I made this rule is
because I used to do exactly what you've described, stand it up, some
front and rear brakes, cross center.....until that one day when there
was a Toyota pickup coming the other way. Having survived that head on
collision, and not wanting to repeat that mistake, I learned, and
listened, and went to the track...and thats where the RULE was
developed. Its a good rule too....perhaps I adhere to it more than most
because the last time I didn't follow the RULE.....I became bumper bait.
It hurts. Badly. But a bonus is the x-rays of my back are purely
inspirational...I keep a set around to remind me to
always....follow...the....RULE. You will be amazed what the bike will do
as long as you don't overcontrol it. Loose on the bars, steady throttle
or steady increase/decrease, steady on or off the brakes, and the thing
will bounce and pogo and feel like its about to pitch you off....but it
won't. Double gyroscopes are amazing things if just given the chance to
sort everything out for you. "Troy the Troll" in
alt.motorcycle.sportbike
Passengers are usually at the mercy of
the rider's good sense, or sometimes the lack thereof. Many passengers
don't know better. So much is written on riding a bike, so many classes
are offered for riders, yet very little is offered for passengers. With
that, here are my suggestions for passengers: Wear Good Gear As a
passenger, you are just as vulnerable as the rider. If the rider decides
to take an asphalt nap, it's beddy-bye time for you too. Don't accept
crappy helmets, while the rider of the bike is in the very best leathers
and replica helmet. You need good gear. Good gear consists of a
SNELL/DOT approved helmet (full face is really the best), a long sleeved
leather or Cordura jacket, at least jeans, heavy leather long fingered
gloves, and boots that cover your ankles. These are the minimum
requirements for riders to take the MSF course. They are a good idea for
you too. Dress for the weather. Nothing will take the joy out of a ride
by coming home miserable, either from the heat, cold, or wet. If your
rider doesn't care about this, I suggest finding someone else to ride
with, someone who will make sure you are dry and warm on that cool
morning. So now that you know what to wear~E Mounting/Dismounting Don't
get on or off the bike unless the rider says they are ready. The best
way to dump you, your friend, and their bike is to leap on or off the
thing when the rider isn't expecting it. Do not stand on the foot pegs
to mount and dismount like you are getting off a horse. I have seen a
foot peg break off when a pillion stood up, put all their weight on one
peg, and tried to step off a bike. To get on, lift your leg over the
seat and scoot on, placing your feet on the pegs to settle into place.
To get off, your best bet is to slide your hips over, set a foot down,
and step away from the bike, pulling your leg over the seat, or around
the back. How to Sit on the Bike As a passenger, sit on the seat, with
your feet on the passenger pegs. Keep your body upright and look ahead.
You can place your hands on the hips of the rider or around their waist.
You can also hold onto the grab bars on the tail section if that works
for you. Another method is to reach around the rider's waist and place
the palms of your hands on the back of the gas tank. This works
especially well on sport bikes. Do not sit or lean against the rider.
Leave yourself a little room so your helmet doesn't bang into the
rider's when they brake. Re. though: Sit Still!! A motorcycle is a
dynamic machine. It makes its way by maintaining balance in turning,
acceleration and braking. The rider is constantly making small control
adjustments throughout the ride. As a pillion you can have a great
effect on the stability of the motorcycle. In short, it is entirely
possible for you to run the bike off the road from the back seat.
Acceleration When the rider accelerates away from a stop, lean forward
slightly to counteract the tendency for the bike to push you back. Don't
forget this and get so far out of shape that you grab onto the rider. I
have seen more than one panicked pillion almost yank the rider off the
accelerating bike. Another thing you can do is squeeze the bike with
your thighs, pressing your weight down on the pegs as you lean forward.
This helps you maintain your balance. If the rider is taking off too
fast for you, ask them to slow down a bit. If they don't, find someone
else to ride with. Braking Everyone has to slow down sometime. When the
rider applies the brakes, your body will tend to slide or lean forward.
You need to counteract this so you don't slide into the back of the
rider. Like when accelerating, use your legs to keep yourself upright.
You can place your hands on the grab rails behind you, or on the back of
the gas tank by reaching around the rider's waist. Do not, under any
circumstances, place your hands against the rider's back or shoulder
blades. I don't know who is teaching some passengers to do this but it
is dangerous. It shoves the rider's weight against the bars, making it
very difficult to control the bike. The first time a passenger did this
to me, we were almost shoved into oncoming traffic. I really, really
wanted to hunt down the clown rider that taught them that trick.
Cornering Bikes lean. It's what makes them so much fun. When the bike is
cornering, the rider may move around, or even hang off a bit. Don't try
to emulate them. It is your job to sit still, lean as the bike leans,
keeping your body solid on the seat and aligned with the bike. Another
thing you can do is to look over the inside shoulder of the rider as you
go through the corner. This doesn't mean you lean over more than
necessary. Just look towards the inside of the corner. This also let's
you see where you are going so you can anticipate a stop. Stopping As
the passenger: when the bike comes to stop, sit still. Keep your feet on
the pegs. Let the rider do all the work. If you need to shift about,
tell the rider you want to move so they are ready for it. Communication
Talk to your rider, before, during and after the ride. Let them know if
you are new. Don't be afraid to tell them if you are scared. Everyone is
inexperienced at something. There is nothing wrong with being nervous.
If your rider scoffs at this, come ride with me. During the ride, if you
need a break, say so. If you want them to slow down, ask. After the
ride, give them some feedback. If you had fun, say so. If you need to
communicate with your rider during the ride, understand that shouting
inside your full-face helmet at 60mph is pretty useless. You need to get
their attention first. Reach around and tap them on the top of the
thigh, or on the shoulder, to let them know you want their attention.
When they acknowledge you, speak loudly and in small words. If you can,
use hand signals to direct them. Talk about these signals with your
rider before you start the ride, before you need a rest stop, or need to
give them directions. Take responsibility for your ride. Communicate
with the rider. Make it clear what your expectations are, and don't ride
with any rider, on any bike, where you aren't comfortable. Like I said,
if your rider doesn't listen to your concerns, if you aren't comfortable
on the back of that bike, you can always ride with my friends and me.
Current K bikes - bulletproof, VERY
fast, VERY smooth. They can cause points on your license. A tad heavy,
but if you're talking about the K1200GS - I doubt if you'd notice the
difference between it and an R1150RT. The K's are generally thought of
as the Maytag of motorcycles. You get on it - and go. Aside from general
service (which can be done fairly easily by a competent owner), they've
been around long enough (basic design dates back to 1983) that the bugs
have all been chased away. The K1200LT is WAY too much bike for a
returning rider - they are a super long-distance bike, but very heavy at
slow speeds.. and IMHO - too many do-dads to fiddle with (as Phil
mentioned, a radio is a waste on a bike.. you're out to ride, not sit in
the couch at home like you do in a car..) 2. R bikes - have character
(which can be defined as you know there is an engine under you, and it
might sometimes make itself known), has a relatively primitive FI system
(good point is - it never breaks, bad point is - it tends to allow
surging), not as much power and not as smooth. Will take you wherever
you want to go, but maintenance is higher (has the worlds shortest
pushrods, with 'high' cams in the head), valves will need adjusting more
often, throttle-bodies need syncing sometimes (K bikes NEVER do..), and
although it's a newer basic design than the K bikes, it hasn't been
updated as much as the K has over the past 5-7 years. The "new" RS is
really a retro bike they reintroduced since people liked the R1100RS..
the 6 speed tranny is nice, the linked/power/ABS brakes are excellent,
but the basic engine design aside from going up 50cc's once (to help
retain power while meeting 2005 emission spec's) hasn't really changed.
No big weak points on the R bikes, but certain year/models have been
noted for some assembly flaws.. hopefully they've got that sorted out by
now. One you haven't mentioned, and is kinda the sleeper of the BMW
world, is the R1150GS.. this is the pseudo 'adventure' bike, and has
looks that have to grow on you. It also will smoke most sport bikes in
twisties (not from power, but from sheer competent handling), and among
.s of our local club, once you have one, you tend to stick with the
model (some .s are on their 3rd one - they try something else, then come
back to the GS..) Not a real off-road bike (although some people WILl
ride anything anywhere) - it's a good sport-tourer that can take to
gravel fire roads when you want to. And if you don't want to commit a
lotta bucks for a whim (actually knowing you - this is really a
non-issue) - consider the various 650 single models. They're a good
intro to BMW's world, but not a 'keeper' bike - most people graduate to
something with more than one cylinder after a year or two - making the
used ones a good buy. They are capable of 80MPH all day, and some long
distance riders have used them for IronButt events.. just figure it as
the intro bike, and enjoy it for what it is.. Also consider your inseam.
Since I don't re. how tall you are - German bikes tend to be built for
tall people.. so getting comfortable with the bike is easier if your
toes at least touch the ground at stop. It's a problem for me - but I've
pretty much overcome it with a lot of mods and tricks.. (28" inseam on a
tall day..) Like Phil said - you can ride almost anywhere on anything,
but your level of comfort will go up as you head up in the price range.
Don't ditch the stock seat until YOU know you need a different one - I
have friends who are perfectly comfortable on stock seats, and have
coast-to-coast rides to prove it. I'm not - arthritis in the hips makes
me seek a different seat, but some people are. Factor the cost of a seat
into the equation ($200-300) when buying - but don't rush out to do it
until YOU decided you need one. No matter which bike you get - you DO
want ABS (I think it's only optional on the 650's..) it can save your
butt when bambi runs out in front of you.. And consider the gear - good
riding gear keeps you alive, there is a website dedicated to people who
survived because they WERE wearing the gear. Figure $1000 or so for good
gear. I recommend visiting http://www.riderwarehouse.com to see what is
available in all-weather protective gear. Helmets - cheap head, cheap
helmet (although most any full face helmet IS good..) - but this has
gotta be a fit's me or not decision.. different people have different
shaped heads, and different helmets are shaped differently. Generally -
more $$ gets higher quality helmet, with more features. Once in a while
there are some killer deals out there on last-years model, but I
included close to retail in my $1000 price. Also - good boots, good
gloves. Don't be a squid (rider on a crotch rocket going 90 in shorts,
sneakers and a T-shirt, sometimes with no helmet where allowed). Get the
gear and use it. Good gear becomes like seat belts - once you get used
to using it - you feel naked without it. BMW also makes some excellent
gear (high quality, good finish, well thought out - you'd appreciate the
engineering..) but prices are BMW like.. most people I know who have it
love the BMW gear. Unfortunately - they do not import their helmet to
the US (liability fears) - but you can get the same or better by buying
a Shuburth (who makes BMW's helmets) in the US. Best (and be interested
in hearing what'cha decide.. the reason I suggested seeing Steve
Anderson at Mortons is that he won't nudge you towards what isn't right
for you.. he likes repeat customers.. he's also good people..)
We've all seen those TV commercials
where the slimy lawyer talks about how he can get you "every penny you
deserve". They like to have case examples with people saying how much
money they got for a hangnail. It's enough to convince anyone that if
they get hurt in any way by anyone or anything they'll walk away a
millionaire. In some cases that might be true, but when it comes to
motorcycle accidents the story changes drastically. The sad truth is
that you'll be lucky to limp away with your pride and enough money to
get a new bike. The following article covers the blunt truths about what
to expect, what to beware of and what you can do to be better prepared.
Lets begin by knocking some of the common myths. Myth #1- My medical
bills will be taken care of by the medical coverage on my motorcycle
insurance. Yes, it will, but if you think you have more than $6000 in
personal medical coverage on your policy you had better take a closer
look. Few insurance companies will insure you (on your bike policy)
medically for more than $3000, and almost never for more than $6000.
There are a few states where it is possible to get up to $10,000, but if
you have that kind of coverage you know it, as you are paying a great
deal extra for it. The higher numbers which you may think cover you,
actually represent your liability insurance. For example, coverage of
$50,000 per person and $100,000 per accident is for anyone that you
hurt. Insurance companies lose nothing by providing high liability
insurance to motorcyclists because the chances of someone in a car being
injured by a collision with a motorcycle are slim. On the good side,
your passenger could be compensated somewhat if they are injured, but
they will only be compensated for as much as your "per person" liability
coverage. If that coverage is $50K, it won't even pay for all of your
passenger's medical bills if they have been seriously injured, not to
mention the compensation they will need for lost wages and regular
monthly expenses. On the bad side, your $6000 will be gone by the time
you get to the emergency room, and long before you go into the operating
room. The disturbing part about the so-called medical coverage for you
on your motorcycle policy is that, in essence, you don't have any. Myth
#2- I have a separate health insurance policy that will cover my
hospital bills. If you are lucky enough to have a good health insurance
policy, your medical bills will be covered...... sort of. The insurance
industry has a nasty little scam known as subrogation. What a
subrogation clause does sounds somewhat reasonable at first, until it
happens to you. You pay your premium every month so that if you have a
medical emergency you won't have to pay so much to the hospital. The
problem with subrogation arises when you have injuries that are the
fault of another party. When this is the case, insurance companies think
they should get paid back for the money they spent on your medical bills
and. they want to take it from your settlement. So, if you have $75,000
in medical bills, and you get a settlement for $100,000 (because that
was the "per person" coverage on the other vehicle's policy), your own
health insurance company can legally take $75,000 from your settlement.
After 33% goes to your attorney, you are left with just over $16,000.
Does that sound like reasonable compensation for getting run over? Now
it seems that somewhere in there the insurance company is double
dipping: they get paid once with your monthly premium and once from your
settlement. A handful of states have had court rulings that say that the
insurance companies cannot be paid twice. Among them,: Pennsylvania,
Virginia, Missouri, Arizona, and Georgia. Also, in March of this year a
Maryland appeals court ruled that the state's HMO Act prohibited
managed-care companies from pursuing subrogation at all. Currently,
there are as many as a dozen class actions challenging subrogation in
nine states, including Florida, Texas and Illinois. If you don't live in
one of those states, you had better take a close look at your health
insurance policy. If it has a subrogation clause, you may get shafted.
With subrogation, the insurance company considers what they pay towards
your medical bills a "loan". A loan for which they will want to be paid
back., In fact, the "reimbursement" sought by many health insurance
companies is for the hospital's billed charges (the fee for full-paying
patients), even though the health plans get a discount. However, 25
states, Colorado among them, have statutes and case law requiring that
injured people get fully compensated before health insurance companies
can try to collect a portion of the personal injury settlement. The
wording, "fully compensated", is vague and it is up to the injured party
to prove that they have not been fully compensated by the settlement.
{Much of the above information on subrogation comes from an article by
Michelle Andrews in the July, 2000 issue of Newsweek} Myth#3 -My bike
insurance will cover the damages to my bike. If you have comprehensive
coverage on your bike, you'll probably get fair market value if your
bike is relatively new. Unless you have a special policy (and you'll pay
extra in your premiums for it if you do), you will not get paid for any
aftermarket bits that were on the bike. The insurance companies won't
pay for your modifications, special paint job, carbon fiber pipe, chrome
bits, nothing. You also have a deductible, subtract that amount from the
bottom line. So, you could buy a $10,000 bike, put $3500 in accessories
into it and add a $1000 paint job. Now say you've owned the bike for a
few years, bluebook value is down to $8000 and your deductible is $500.
You'll be lucky to get $7500 for a bike that cost you $14,500. Ouch.
Myth#4- Personal Injury Protection (PIP) insurance will pay my lost
wages, just like it does on cars. Motorcycles are considered by all
insurance companies to be "recreational vehicles". This is the insurance
company's way of telling you that you cannot have PIP insurance for a
motorcycle, despite the fact that it is mandatory for all cars. This
means that where your insurance company will cover a percentage of your
lost wages if you are in a car accident, they won't if you're in a
motorcycle accident. Several bikers have told me that their insurance
companies allow you the option of purchasing PIP coverage. Not so. I
have contacted State Farm, Farmers, Geico, and Dairyland and asked each
if they offer PIP coverage for motorcycles. In each case I was told that
PIP is not available on motorcycle policies, nor is it an option that
may be purchased at a higher premium. Many motorcycle rights groups are
trying to negotiate for PIP insurance. Hopefully it will be possible in
the future, but for now it isn't there. Myth #5- The bastard that ran me
over will burn in court and never be able to drive again. The horrible
truth is that the system doesn't care about you; the cops, the judge,
the prosecutor and the general public all will look down on you,
pre-judging you as a reckless "biker" without the slightest ounce of
mercy. Many cops tend to be prejudice against motorcyclists (even the
cops that ride can be that way), thinking that there is an assumed risk
in riding a motorcycle and you should just expect to get hurt. If the
person that hits you runs a red light, that's what the cop will give
them a ticket for, and likely nothing more. If they make an illegal
left-hand turn in front of you, they'll get a ticket for failure to
yield to right of way. If they run a stop sign, the cop may give you a
ticket and say that you must have been speeding. If they back into
traffic and hit you while in reverse, the cop may give you a ticket for
following too closely. I know this all sounds a bit paranoid, but these
exact situations have happened to people I know, and those were were the
results. Police officers generally won't cite the driver of the other
vehicle with any more than minimal offenses unless they are drunk or
driving illegally, and even then it seems to be rare. Also know that the
cops will likely not get your side of the story if you get hurt badly.
You may be in shock and not re. what happened or you may be in route to
a hospital while the cop is taking statements. The driver of the cage on
the other hand will make up any story they can to prevent themselves
from being at fault. One thing that can make things go your way is if
there are witnesses. Most of the time the witnesses will tell it like
they saw it. People generally will set their biases aside and try to do
the right thing. Those bystanders that see the entire event unfold in
front of them are your best bet for getting the driver of the vehicle
that hit you to take the blame for their actions. As long as you aren't
in an unfavorable location, like getting hit on your ratbike in front of
a country club by a rich .. The courtroom is the worst of all, as far as
the courts are concerned, whatever the cop wrote the ticket for is what
the offender will be charged with. This is where the city attorney will
likely give the wanker that ran you down some sort of sweet deal to not
take up any more of the court's precious time. They won't add on
anything after the fact unless your lawyer contacts the city attorney
prosecuting the case and tries to get their cooperation. Sometimes even
contacting the city attorney won't do you any good, as they have large
caseloads and generally aren't too concerned about victims in traffic
injuries. If the cop is the bottom of the barrel for giving this jerk
only a violation for running a red light, the city attorney is the stuff
underneath the barrel as they will cut that penalty in half just to get
the person that hit you through the system faster. The judge will likely
give them a piddly little fine of a hundred bucks, lower their offense
to "defective vehicle" and send them out the door. No jail time, no
community service, no suspended license, nothing. This all sounds very
bad, but the worst part is that you have absolutely NO bearing or
influence on what happens to the careless bastard that ran you down,
none at all. Myth#6- You can sue for the amount of your damages. Better
sit down for this one, it's the worst of all. If the person who hits you
inflicts $75,000 worth of damage in hospital bills, that's just the
beginning. You'll likely miss a couple of months of work and the
accompanying wages. You also have to figure in mental anguish, When
you're sitting around in casts for a couple of months trying to figure
out how to pay bills, you'll have alot of mental anguish. If you re. the
accident, you'll probably have Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. PTSD is
what lots of soldiers come home from war with.. Any brutal or violent
trauma can leave you with PTSD; it can give you constant nightmares,
flashbacks, cause you fits of extreme anger, sadness, terror, depression
and a million associated psychological disorders. If you have any sort
of pre-existing disorders, you could be in a lot more trouble than
you're prepared for. PTSD will take your existing temper and turn you
into a borderline sociopath. Or, you may go from a little depressed to
full-blown suicidal. If you are lucky enough to have health insurance,
you are responsible for paying co-payments. Each prescription will run
you $5 to $25 and each visit with a medical professional runs about $10.
This adds up quickly when you are taking at least four different drugs
and being seen by your primary care doctor, an orthopedic doctor, and
physical therapists. Often people forget about the expenses involved
making your house safe, comfortable, and accessible while you recover.
Did you hurt your legs or back? You'll have to make sure your bed is
high enough off of the floor so that you don't have to bend or fall to
get in and out of it. You will need grab bars for the shower so that you
don't fall. You'll need something other than the bed to sit in because
you have to keep your legs elevated. None of these things are covered by
your own bike insurance or health insurance and you aren't getting
anything from the other persons insurance for a very long time. For many
people, these items are an unaffordable luxury . In which case, what you
called home before becomes a dangerous and frustrating environment .
Ready for more? How about property damages? Say your bike is worth $5000
and it's a total, you also may have a couple hundred to a couple
thousand in damages to your gear, not to mention any other items of
value that might have been destroyed. Now you can finally add in things
like permanent scars and disabilities. What if you can't run anymore, or
walk without a cane, or you lose your vision or hearing. What if you can
never ride again, or play your favorite sport, or you can no longer do
your chosen profession. What if you get addicted to the painkillers
(this is very common and is very difficult to deal with)? What if your
face is badly scarred or you get permanent internal trauma or you lose a
limb? All or any of these things could happen to you. Depending on the
severity of the accident and your injuries, you could easily end up with
several hundred thousand dollars in damages. So lets see how this adds
up with myth#5. You have a total of $350,000 in damages, but the other
guy's liability insurance is only $100,000 dollars. You now have the
choice of suing for the limit of his insurance policy OR suing him for
his personal assets, but you can't do both. Insurance companies will
make you sign a waiver stating that you will not pursue any further
compensation from their insured. This means that after you settle,
that's it. That's every penny you will ever get. Now if the driver that
hit you has $250,000 in assets, you can go after that instead. Now what
if he only owns the crappy little car he hit you with and has no other
assets and works a low paying job? Your only choice then is to settle
for the $100,000 insurance policy. Your lawyer will get a third of this
and you'll be left with $67,000..... maybe. This of course is a better
scenario than most, because more than likely you'll get hit by someone
with minimal assets and an even lower insurance policy. Most states only
require drivers to have $25,000 in liability insurance. A third of that
$25,000 goes to your lawyer, now you're left with around $16,666 until
your medical insurance company comes to take their piece,. We all know
what happens then. The bottom line on all of this is relatively
disturbing, sometimes even in the best case scenario. Unfortunately it
is likely that you will never get fully compensated for the damages you
have suffered. It is also likely that whoever hits you will actually get
away with less physical and psychological problems, less financial
problems and a joke of a slap on the wrist from our joke of a legal
system. Oh, and about the uninsured/underinsured insurance that you have
on your motorcycle policy -- You can only access this money if the
amount if higher than the other persons liability insurance. Example:
The person who hit you has a $100/300 liability policy. You have
$350,000 in total damages. You have $25,000 in uninsured/underinsured
coverage. You can't touch it. However, if you are involved in a hit and
run or the person who hits you has $25,000 in liability (the minimum in
Colorado) and you have $35,000 in uninsured/underinsured, then you can
use your own policy. If you are feeling a little helpless at this point,
also know that there are things you can do to make things easier. #1-
Use preventative measures and wear protective gear (i.e.: a helmet,
gloves, jacket, boots, riding pants and body armor): This could be the
difference between a broken bone and losing a limb. Road rash is
extremely painful and leaves nasty scars, but it is also easy to
prevent. Wear leather or kevlar and as much impact armor as you feel
comfortable with. Too many people will buy expensive gear only to leave
it at home because they don't want to take the time to put it on or
because it's too warm outside. Make sure that the gear you get is the
gear you will wear, otherwise it's useless. Wear a helmet if you
treasure your face and brain, they are very fragile and will lose in a
collision with almost any surface. Some people don't like to wear
helmets and this is a personal choice, but imagine your face sliding for
fifteen feet on the pavement and understand the possible ramifications
of this choice. A helmet is uncomfortable on hot days, but it is much
better than having your teeth ground off by the asphalt. The one day in
many years of wearing a helmet that I chose not to, a truck ran a red
light and hit me. My face wasn't permanently damaged, but after nearly
six months the multiple head injuries are still causing me headaches and
memory loss. #2-Get your motorcycle license: Contrary to popular belief,
there is a difference between a car endorsement and a motorcycle
endorsement. Most riders who are involved in accidents do not have a
motorcycle license.It's not a coincidence. If you are serious enough
about riding to be concerned about getting into an accident you should
be serious enough to get your motorcycle license. It is also imperative
to have your motorcycle registered and have your tags up to date. These
things will matter when the cop is writing tickets at the scene of the
accident. #3-Have full coverage insurance on your bike and don't ride
without it: If your bike is damaged or totaled in the accident you will
be able to get compensated for damages within a few weeks. This will be
very helpful for easing the pressure of finances since you may not be
able to work. This also means that if you get nothing else (like a hit
and run situation), you'll at least be able to cover the loss of your
bike. In the case that you are financing your motorcycle, you are
required to have full coverage insurance. Trust me, this will help a
great deal if you still owe on your bike. Best case scenario, insurance
will also keep you from getting salt poured into your fresh wounds in
the form of a very expensive ticket. #4-Take a rider education course:
This is a good idea no matter how long you have been riding. Anyone who
has been through a course will testify to that fact. They can give you
tips that can make you a much safer rider. They also teach you many
techniques for better riding that could keep you out of accidents that
can be avoided. Another great thing about courses for new riders is that
you can usually get your motorcycle license through them instead of
taking the DMV's crappy test. #5-Don't ride when tired, angry or under
the influence of alcohol ordrugs: Riding when sleepy has a similar
affect to riding drunk and slows your reaction times. Riding when angry
means that your mind is somewhere else, and not on riding. Keeping a
cool head will also make your ride much more enjoyable. Not riding on
drugs or alcohol is self-explanatory, it's stupid and will make things
much, much worse. Also re. that over the counter drugs like allergy and
cold medicines can cause just as many problems as alcohol or illegal
drugs. Make sure to read and follow the warnings on prescription
medication, and make sure you can safely take it and ride. #6-Avoid rush
hour and bar rush if possible: When everyone else on the road is at
their worst, it's best to stay away. Bring the latest issue of your
favorite motorcycle magazine with you to work and wait out the evening
rush hour somewhere with a cup of coffee. Wouldn't you rather spend an
hour reading about motorcycles relaxing followed by a nice ride home
than spending the same amount of time in traffic fighting for your
survival? Bar rush is the worst. Around 1am the road becomes a frenzy of
drunk, belligerent, tired, angry, careless and stupid drivers. One of
these idiots may run you down and be too drunk to notice thereby leaving
you bleeding and helpless in the middle of the street. Plan ahead and
either get home before 1am, or find a coffeehouse or an all night cafe
and wait until 3am. It's inconvenient and annoying to have to spend all
this time waiting around, but it's better than dealing with some of the
alternatives. #7- Beware of the perfect day: We always figure that
riding in bad weather or in traffic is the most dangerous, well, it is.
But don't let a nice sunny Saturday morning fool you. Always be on your
guard because an idiot in a big truck can strike at any time, especially
when you least expect it. #8-Make sure your health insurance policy does
not have a subrogation clause. If your motorcycle insurance policy has a
subrogation clause, worry not. You won't have to pay anything if they
subrogate for the cost of your bike because that money comes out of a
different part the other persons insurance. Medical insurance is the big
one to worry about. If you have a group policy through your job that has
a subrogation clause, make sure your employer knows about it. Let
everyone know that subrogation applies to any accident where another
party is at fault, be it a motorcycle, car or pedestrian. #9 Find a good
lawyer BEFORE you need one: Find a good lawyer that has a good track
record involving motorcycle personal injury cases. Some lawyers actually
specialize in motorcycle related cases and can help you get through
things as painlessly as possible. They will also be familiar with the
many elements that are specific to your needs and will be able to answer
your questions and know your concerns. If you can find a lawyer that you
trust then you're way ahead of the game if you are ever run over. The
sooner a lawyer can get on your case the better the chances that things
will go your way. Not to mention it's no fun sitting in the hospital
flipping through the yellow pages. #10-Join motorcycle rights
organizations and fight for the rights of all motorcyclists: Many of the
disturbing truths mentioned in this article can be changed through
legislation and the pressures of public disapproval on the government.
Read up on motorcycle rights groups like ABATE, AMA, MRF and Ride To
Work. Ride To Work is an especially important group to join if your bike
is your primary form of transportation, as they are advocates for the
rights of "daily riders". Check the bottom of this article for the
addresses of motorcycle rights groups. Most importantly, make sure you
have friends and family that can help care for you so you aren't alone
in the hospital. Having friends and family with you in this kind of
situation is sometimes the medicine that helps the most. This is
especially important when you are released from the hospital, as most
motorcycle wrecks are something that you will be recovering from for
quite a while. Hopefully you will be one of those riders lucky enough to
avoid getting into an accident. Hopefully you won't need to ever have to
go through the hell of trying to recover you health, sanity and
financial security after such an ordeal. But re., it is important to be
prepared for the worst, and hope that those preparations are never
needed. Keep the rubber side down.
Yesterday, I finally picked up the
pants half of BMW's new "Venting Machine" textile riding suit to go with
the jacket I purchased earlier. BMW describes this suit as having an
"unbelievable ventilation effect" due to "the intensive use of gauze."
The "gauze" they are referring to is protected by a "high-strength
polyamide" (i.e., Nylon) mesh. However, the seat, knees and most of the
front surface of the pants is a more tightly woven Nylon (but it is not
windproof). The more open mesh is primarily on the back of the legs.
There is removable, dense rubber padding at the shoulders, elbows, and
knees. The jacket has two inside zippered pockets and two outside
zippered pockets. The pants have zippered front pockets, no rear
pockets. Pricing is typical BMW, i.e., painfully high. The jacket lists
for $399. The pants list for $325. BMW doesn't yet have anything about
this suit on their U.S. websites. Here is what's on the
bmw-motorrad site:
http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/com/en/index_frameset.html?content=
http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/com/en/products/
riderspoint/motorcycle_suits/textile_suits/
textilesuits_venting.html
The comment on this site about it being comfortable at temperatures
above 25°C (77F) is obviously a typo; I assume they meant to say 35°C
(95F). The pants are NOT overpants. The pant legs have a relatively snug
fit when the waist is sized to fit. The zipper at the bottom of the legs
makes it easy to put your boots on, but the zipper does not come up
anywhere near high enough to put the pants on without removing your
boots. I wore the pants with a pair of cotton gym shorts underneath. In
the future I will probably wear them with conventional underwear, which
would be more comfortable. Like the pants for the two piece Aerostich
Roadcrafter, they are sized based on jacket size, e.g., size "44" is the
waist size that normally goes with a size 44 one-piece suit, it's not a
44 inch waist. (Since the pants and jacket are sold separately, you
don't have to have the same size jacket and pants.) The size 44 Venting
machine pant is much tighter fitting than the size 44 Aerostich pant,
which is sized to be worn over blue jeans or fleece. I did a back to
back comparison with my Aerostich Roadcrafter riding my K1200GT with an
Aeroflow windscreen. The jacket has a very high level of ventilation.
The difference between the Venting Machine jacket and the Aerostich
jacket being most noticeable at low speeds. At higher speeds, there is
still a ventilation advantage for the BMW jacket, but the advantage is
less because the Aeroflow has good ventilation at speed with the back
and underarm vents opened and sleeves opened up. The pants do not work
nearly as well as the jacket. There just isn't enough of the open mesh
material. They are similar to riding in blue jeans; with blue jeans
being a bit cooler. Compared to the Roadcrafter pants, the Venting
Machine pants are cooler, but not quite as comfortable against bare skin
because they don't have a liner. On a bike with less wind protection,
the ventilation advantage of the Venting Machine outfit would
undoubtedly be more significant. When I would stand on the pegs and into
the airstream, the air flow through the jacket was dramatic. There is no
way I would ever use the Venting Machine on a long trip. It is not
sufficiently versatile. It's strictly for hot, dry weather. I would also
never use the pants for commuting in hot weather because I would have to
change pants at the end of my ride. The jacket plus blue jeans is a very
comfortable hot weather combination, if you are willing to ride with the
relatively poor level of abrasion protection provided by blue jeans. The
jacket provides almost as much ventilation as riding with no jacket at
all. For short day-rides in hot weather the pants and jacket combination
is pretty good. They are so light that you can comfortably wear them
when walking around off the bike. The same cannot be said for the
Aerostich. The combined weight of the Venting Machine jacket and pants
is 5 pounds. For comparison, my 2-piece Roadcrafter in the same size is
9 pounds. Living in the Sacramento area, I expect to get a lot of use
out of the Venting Machine jacket, but it won't get nearly the miles
that my Aerostich gets over the course of the year.
Not a big dog, but learned some great
tips here that helped me on my 100CCC. I, too, had done only a SS1K and
BBG, but not a multi-day ride and was concerned about how I'd do. FWIW:
1) Plan. The more you visualize the trip, the more real you make it in
your mind which will increase your chance of success. Get paper maps and
study them. I had a large US map on the wall next to me at work with
black push pins for nighttime hours, yellow for daytime. 2) Figure what
times you'll hit different cities so you can keep track of your progress
during the ride. 3) Plan to hit heavy deer areas (esp. West Texas)
during the day. 4) Try to avoid the hot season and rainy seasons. May
and October are probably the best months. 5) Don't overplan. Leave some
room for flexibility. Used to getting 200-mile range? You might only get
120 miles per tank if you hit heavy headwinds. 6) Take 2 credit cards.
My first one DID get cut off, in spite of calls ahead of time to VISA's
Fraud Protection Department. Grrr. 7) Keep hydrated. 8) Carbohydrates
(sugar, bread, rice, potatoes) make me drowsy, so my diet consisted of
beef jerkey, macadamia nuts, cheese slices, diet soda. But I splurged in
JAX with a Waffle House meal of waffles, maple syrup and hash browns
before hitting the hay for 6 hours. The only real meal in 4 days. 9)
NODS -- learned a valuable lesson about them near Pensacola. Pushing
through them gives one a false sense of security and they WILL catch up
with you. When you encounter them, my advice is to pull off IMMEDIATELY
and try a 20-minute nap. If that's not enough and you start nodding off
again within an hour, pull over again and take a 40-minute nap. I found
that could keep me going another 4-16 hours. 10) On a 50CC, I'd
personally try to make it in 48 hours (2 hour emergency allowance) and
split it into 2, 20-hour, 1200-mile days. This would allow a 8 hour
hotel stay in the middle, a shower and 7 hours sleep. This assumes a
legal and doable 60mph overall .. 11) Entertainment? You'll figure out
your own and your job situation will probably give you plenty to keep
the mind occupied. 12) Ride with things you're familiar with. Minor
nuisances can turn into big ones on a long trip. 13) Keep an extra key
hidden on the bike. DAMHIKT. 14) As someone else put it here, it's not
so much about endurance, as it is persistence. 15) Ride safe and keep us
.
Several things I use regularly where I
"could" pull over anywhere & at anytime. The key here is to decide
whether the following things work long enough to continue on or do I
pull over and sleep: - isometric exercises between the handlebars while
riding (pushups, squeezing bars together, etc.). - very strong mint gum
like Dentyne ICE or very strong mints - Hall's Mentholytus mints/candy
will REALLY open your sinuses and your eyes (or my eyes). - eating
something or drinking something cool like water. - hooking up with
another rider you meet going your way. - talking with a trucker on the
CB. - standing on the pegs. - rolling your shoulders over and over. -
stretching exercises with arms and legs. - mental distance calculations
to next destination. - butt clenches over and over and over. - singing
along with some peppy music on the radio/mp3 player. If I am in a
position where the items above no longer work and I cannot pull over
safely but HAVE to keep going (the Cassiar Hwy at night during the 02
Rendezvous comes to mind where there were dangers from bears and from
the cold), I might do the following: - drink a Red-Bull energy drink
that I carry for just such a situation (or something similar to get me
through till I can stop). - pull over and run around doing jumping
jacks, etc. then continue for a ways till I have to stop and repeat. -
clench every muscle in my body for as long as it takes over and over to
stay awake until the VERY first opportunity where I can stop safely.
When I do this, I am EXTREMELY careful not allow myself to relax for a
second because I've learned the hard way that at this point, it only
TAKES ME less than A SECOND to nod off. Bottom line, PULL OVER as soon
as you can and GET OFF THE BIKE when you can safely do so. Take at least
a 1/2 hour nap if not an hour or more. Most interstates have rest stops
along them but I've used wide areas in the road too. Don't let yourself
nod AT ALL if you can help it. This is a VERY dangerous situation. This
is NOT like a car where the car can stay up on it's own. You will
eventually lean one way or the other and the bike will go in that
direction - right off the road if you do not wake up in time to stop it.
I think John and I both have learned this the hard way. My first
accident on my ST while ldriding was during my second BBG attempt from
Iowa back to Seattle and was totally due to nodding off for just a tenth
of a second. I was unhurt in the resulting low-side and the bike was
minimally damaged but it forever more changed how I deal with "the nods"
on a bike. I was VERY lucky I wasn't hurt as seriously as Mr. Laurenson
was - I missed going over a bridge's guard rail and falling 30 feet
below by mere inches and because of my quick reactions when I opened my
eyes seconds before the impact with the guard rail. I swerved at the
last second and only glanced off the metal railing resulting in a low
side. I was only 3 miles or so from Buffallo, Wyoming and "thought" I
could make it there before I needed to pull over. I was lazy and wanted
somewhere more comfortable than the side of the road to sleep on. I had
already nodded several times along the way but kept pushing on. THIS IS
A MISTAKE! I did rode the bike the rest of the way home to Seattle from
Buffallo, Wyoming but you can be sure I was WIDE awake the whole time.
I'm proud to say that I've NEVER since allowed this to happen. If I have
to, I pull over, do jumping jacks, and continue until I have to pull
over again and repeat till I can get somewhere safe to rest. I do this
even if I only ride 5 miles before I have to stop again. Be careful out
there. Build up your endurance and experience slowly, learning the whole
way. What do you learn? You learn what YOUR limits are and what works
FOR YOU when dealing with various situations. Be patient, the skills and
knowledge will come with time. Don't be in a rush to learn the hard way
and realize that what works for one person may NOT work for you. I hope
these ideas help.
Living on the gulf coast of Texas, I
find that evaporative cooling doesn't help much in this area. A few
weeks ago, I got one of the new vests with the phase change material
that freezes at 65 deg. There are several people making or distributing
them now. this one came from the company that makes Hyper Lights, but I
suspect that they are all very similar. Construction: The vest is well
made of heavy cotton fabric and very adjustable with Velcro flaps on the
side and at the shoulders. It zippers up the front with a good heavy
duty plastic zipper. The 'phase change' material is in a series of clear
poly tubes reminiscent of the old 'freeze pops'. For simplicity, I'll
refer to them as gel tubes. The gel tubes fit in pouches in the front
and rear of the vest. Each tube is about 1.5" wide and 5" long. 4 fit on
each side in front and 8 across the back. All of the tubes fit in the
lower torso area and none in the chest, neck or shoulder area. This
definitely reduces the cooling effect. The test: Last weekend I rode
home from the Ozarks. About 600 miles. It was in the mid to upper 80's
when I left and the bulk of the riding was in the mid 90's. It was also
very humid for the entire ride. I would estimate the dew point in the
low 80's, which is pretty high. I was wearing the vest under an
Aerostich Darien (blue if you think that matters). When wearing the
vest, I kept all vents, including the sleeve vents closed. The claims:
the literature says that the material is good for 2 - 2 1/2 hours and
takes 15 to 20 minutes to recharge. The technical results: The material
loses it's cooling effect by the time the gel is about 1/2 melted. For
me under the described conditions, this happened in about 90 minutes. I
had a cooler filled with ice water on the bike and when completely
submerged in ice water, it took about 30 minutes for the gel to
refreeze. The subjective results: For 60 to 90 minutes, this vest does
provide some measure of cooling although with no cooling in the shoulder
area, I didn't feel really comfortable and was still perspiring pretty
freely. After 90 minutes, there was no appreciable cooling effect from
the vest and it probably made me feel somewhat warmer than not having
it. The only way I can see that this vest could really make sense is if
you spring for another set of gel packs. I think they are about $80 for
another set. Otherwise, you would spend half your time either riding
with no cooling or standing around waiting for them to refreeze. The
summary: If you live or ride in a hot and high humidity area and are
willing to stop every hour and half to change the gel tubes out, this
would be a reasonable solution. I tend to ride about 4 hours at a
stretch and for me to have to stop in the middle would be an
inconvenience that I will likely live without. For the amount of cooling
provided, I don't think it is worth the investment or trouble. Of
course, this is only my opinion and if you are a heat wuss, it might be
just the ticket.
A couple of days ago I read on the
list that First Gear is now making a summer jacket. I didn't know this
and I am grateful that someone it. Since I didn't care for
the feel of the Joe Rocket Phoenix, and I can't find the Fieldsheer
Titanium Air locally, I thought I'd check this out. I found a picture of
the Mesh-Tex on the 'net and I thought I wouldn't like it because the
pic makes it look pretty bad. Went to a dealer today and they look much,
much better in person. The silver was OK, but I liked the blue one and
the red one better. Everyone has their own preferences on color, but
there are plenty of colors to choose from. IMO, the material feels
better on the Mesh-Tex. It has a tighter weave. Don't know if that's it
or not, but to me it feels better while on. Looks like the Phoenix has
better armor, but the armor in the First Gear jacket is removable and
can be replaced with whatever one desires. I liked the blue best, so
that's what I bought. Now I know what everyone has been raving about.
These mesh jackets are great! I cooked in my Kilimanjaro on the way out,
but felt pretty good on the way home with the new jacket. Obviously, it
gets warmer stopped than when moving, but it's nothing compared to
sitting in traffic with a black Kilimanjaro. After sitting in traffic
today, I think I have a pretty good idea of what the Butterball feels
like on Thanksgiving day after being in the oven for a couple of hours.
:) I don't how much effect the tighter weave has on airflow compared to
the Phoenix, but a friend has one and I might be able to do a side by
side comparison one day. Even if the Phoenix has slightly better
airflow, I would still go with the Mesh-Tex due to personal preference
for the feel of the material. I'm simply posting this as a second
opinion for those that are looking for a summer jacket. There are many
choices available now (Phoenix, Mesh-Tex, Fieldsheer Titanium Air,
Kushitani, and probably others). I'm happy with the one I bought. Price
was the same as the Phoenix (139.99). I asked if they had any kind of
discount for AMA .s and the knocked 10% off. I was happy with $126.
Might be able to find it cheaper on the 'net. I plan on taking a trip
next week and didn't want to wait. Also, I appreciated being able to
see, touch and try on, so I gave my business to the dealer.
You can find a guide to the motorcycle laws for each of the
50 states at:
http://www.law4hogs.com/laws/
There is a lot you can (and should!) do. [to avoid
being rear-ended] 1) Watch your mirrors as you decelerate and stop. 2)
Stop in first gear, with the clutch hand lever held in. 3) Stop with
about a car length behind the car in front of you so you have plenty of
room to maneuver should you need to in order to evade a vehicle
approaching from behind you. Re., you are still watching your mirrors
the whole time. 4) Pick at least one escape route past the car in front
of you should you need to evacuate your position to evade a vehicle
approaching from behind you. Stop with your your front wheel and maybe
your whole motorcycle oriented toward your primary escape route escape
route. For example, if I stop in the left hand tire groove of the right
hand lane with two lanes going my way, my primary escape route would be
to pass the stopped car in front of me to its left. My secondary escape
route would be to pass the car in front of me to its right. 5) When (not
if) you observe a vehicle behind you approaching at too high a rate of
speed or drawing too close, nail the throttle, release the clutch, and
drive your motorcycle out of your stationary position in your lane into
your predetermined escape route past the stopped vehicle(s) in front of
you. The approaching vehicle will pass through the spot your motorcycle
formerly occupied and will strike the vehicle that had been ahead of you
before you moved. Both the MSF Beginner Course and the MSF Experienced
Rider Course teach this evasion technique. When coming to a stop, one
selects one's lane and position in the lane with regard to one's escape
routes. My brother has on two occasions performed this evasive maneuver
while stopped at an intersection on his motorcycle to escape a vehicle
approaching him from his rear. On both occasions the approaching car
passed cleanly through my brother's former position and impacted the
stationary car in front of my brother's former position. My brother
escaped completely unharmed. Personally, I know two former motorcyclists
who were rear-ended while stopped at intersections. Both escaped with
relatively minor injuries, though their motorcycles were totaled. Both
gave up motorcycling forever after their frighteningly near-death
experiences. Neither had ever attended an MSF course, though each had
been riding motorcycles for decades. Neither had ever heard of stopping
at in intersection in first gear, of watching one's mirrors for
approaching vehicles, of picking one's escape routes, or of a
motorcyclist's being actively responsible for detecting and evading a
vehicle approaching from the motorcyclist's rear. Neither had ever
imagined that a motorcyclist even *could* evade or escape a vehicle
approaching from the rear.
Tom makes an excellent point that actually reflects
some GASP! DATA! There is a HUGE difference in the physiological impact
of 97 degrees with 95% humidity and 115 degrees and 5% humidity. There
are also some real basic physics at work here that makes quite a bit of
difference in the most efficient methods for protection from the
elements. First of all, evaporative cooling ONLY works if evaporation
takes place. In Houston (or Southern Florida), you don't get much
evaporation in that 97 (or worse!) degree/95% humidity. And it makes it
all too tempting NOT to wear PPJs...in southern Arizona (where I have
first hand, objective experience, DATA if you will), evaporation
DEFINITELY takes place at 100 degrees with 5% humidity and things like
the Marcee vest or the Evapodana work great. In fact, they work BETTER
when combined with something like a 'Stich. (Re. that the folks who live
in some of the harshest desert climates in the world wear long, HEAVY
clothing...you are also shielding your body from some of that heat.)
Worse still is the assumption that a given temperature will have a
universal effect...some people ARE more tolerant of combined
temperature/humidity combinations than others. Those things don't apply
as strictly in hot, humid climates because the physics of the situation
works against you. In recent years, however, there have been some
developments that DO work in this climate. Here are links to two sites
(and I know there are others) of folks that are selling Phase Change
based cooling vests and clothing that do work at keeping you cool. And
they will fit under a 'Stich, so you needn't worry about not having some
KNOWN skid protection. Here's the URLs: http://www.texascoolvest.com/index2.html
(No personal knowledge of them...just surprised when they turned up in
my search for the company I used! But now I have a local!) http://www.glaciertek.com/cooling.htm
(This is who I bought mine from last year...and wore all summer under my
Darien on my daily 65 mile commute from Houston to Baytown...they are
based in Florida and, yes, they DO ride so they can relate to problems
of motorcyclists) THESE ARE NOT BASED ON EVAPORATIVE COOLING. TO WORK
BEST, YOU SHOULD WEAR SOMETHING LIKE A 'STICH...you're creating a
microclimate of about 65 around you body core, so you want to insulate
from the external temperatures. Yes, you have to recharge them after
about 2 hours, but it really does only take about 15-20 minute by being
immersed in ice water. I demonstrated this last summer in a restaurant
in Austin to a few riders there. It DOES work and it is great for those
of us in the swamp climates who have daily commutes with which to
contend. As for using them on distance rides, you can buy an extra set
of the Phase Change gel packs and keep them in a small cooler full of
ice-water so you have a set ready to change out at the next stop, pull
the exhausted ones out and stick them in the cooler for the next stop.
We've been experimenting with the "Cool/Hot" insulated, water-tight bags
with ours for recharging. I own a Brosh (piece of trash), a Phoenix
(better than a T-shirt), and a Darien. The Darien gets a of use. I
bought the Phoenix 'cause the Brosh is nothing but a glorified cotton
shirt with some foam armor velcroed into it (Kevlar, my butt!) and God
forbid! the Phoenix MIGHT provide a little more protection. But I bought
the Darien 'cause I KNEW it would provide protection, not just from an
unplanned get-off, but from the climate as well. I bought the Phase
Change vest so I could wear my Darien year-round IN MY CLIMATIC
CONDITIONS. If you are fortunate(?!) enough to live someplace where all
you need is evaporative cooling, then by all means use a Marcee or wet
down a long sleeve cotton t-shirt AND WEAR YOUR GEAR. Some of us just
have to adapt a little more high-tech approach.
here is what is in my bike - all the time and then
what I always pack - when going for any sort of longer ride. 1. Since
every rally asks for it I keep in my right saddle bag - Tools including
- duct tape, fuses, metric tools, ratchet - tire repair kit - extra CO2
cartridges - butane soldering iron - bailing wire, tie wraps, road
flares and JB Weld and tools that I have never used, but... also in
right saddle bag is CD player which never leaves home without at least
one Johny Lang, one Jimi Hendrix and one Tool CD. The other 3 change
frequently. 2. First aid equipment (including a nifty temporary splint =
small bottle of distilled water (for road rash) and a CPR mask thingy).
small space blanket. 3. Electrics - if overnight - also carry cigarette
plug adapter with two ends (one for BMW plug - one for SAE type trailer
plug) 4. Tank bag has - flashlight and Coop light - couple of power bars
(or the like), hard candy (lemon drops dusted in powdered sugar),
leatherman tool, pens and extra pair of reading glasses - sheet type
magnifier (its hell when your eyesight goes), pad of paper. small can of
Gold Bond Powder, bottle of Tylenol, Tums and eye wash (don't re. the
brand, but comes in little plastic vials for single application), small
baggy with extra ear plugs. 5. Always in left saddlebag is a pair of
nylon pants (like gym warm-up pants) and 12" Gerber survival knife.
Neither of these take up much room. I used to carry a handheld spot
light with BMW plug on it - but I took it out and never put it back in.
Taped somewhere on my bike is a $20.00 bill. registration and safety
information are laminated and taped inside the top case with a big red
cross on them - also registration and insurance papers are laminated and
taped inside this zip lock bag. - On my person I carry an extra key for
the bike (in a pocket that I never use. In m stich sleeve pocket I carry
chapstick, ear plugs, eye wash. In breast pocket is a small eyeglass
cleaning towel. On the left sleeve map pocket are pictures of my two
kids. - On the bike are Valentine 1 and GPS and bike computer - lost my
dual timer and haven't replaced it, yet. -- If I have the fuel cell
attached - in the cover pockets will be my electrics - plus heavy duty
rubber gloves (to cover my regular gloves or Widder gloves in the rain)
and bike cover. Also a couple of bungy chords.
"Why won't Snell certify some types of helmets like
flip up front designs? Snell does not dismiss out of hand, any helmet
design that strays from the conventional. Snell does not point out any
design specifications, other than general requirements in our standards.
We are however, always concerned with innovations and new designs that
may effect the helmet's ability to protect the wearer, or in some cases
the helmets potential to cause injury. At present, the Foundation has
not had the opportunity to test any of the flip up front type helmets.
So far, we can not find any fault with these designs as long as they are
used according to the manufacturers instructions. We will also certify
any size of helmet as long as it meets the same requirements as any
other Snell certified helmet." here's what their regs say about latch
requirements: "E. Retention System The retention system shall be
designed so as to discourage misuse. That is, of all the ways in which
the retention system might be used, the design use shall be the simplest
and quickest to implement. Helmets shall not be fitted with
"non-essential" features which, if misused, can degrade the performance.
Quick release buckles, if used, shall not be able to be released
inadvertently." all this was taken from the snell website http://www.smf.org
> EX250 > Nice, cheap. Lots out there. Not too much
power to intimidate. > Has fairings though, so will show *when* i drop
it. It can be stripped for bare duty. http://www.geocities.com/j5nn5r/images/bp3l.jpg
All you would have to do is mount the turn signals on brackets. In this
picture, I removed the headlight, but I didn't have to. Great bike.
Faster than you think. Not as slow as many people think. Cheap, quick,
light. It handles well and gets 70 miles to the gallon. > EX500 > Lots
of em (cheap). Still not lots of power, but with care, should > keep me
busy. > Again, has fairings. A faster, more expensive version of the
EX250. > > Bandit 400 > Again, not too much power. But enough to keep me
occupied for at least > a year or two. Love the looks! > What is the
commodity of this bike? Hard enough to find pics. Is that > indicative
of it's rarity in the market? Not as common as the Ninja bikes but a
real cool ride. This was the bike competing with the Ninja250. It lost.
> > CBR 400 / GSXR 400 > Both of these have decent amounts of power to
keep me interested. > Looks are so-so (they look so UNcomfortable with
that HUGE hump right > in the stomach area!) > Fairings look expensive
on these. Again, are these rarities that I > should forget about? Nice.
Almost cult status. I think expensive for what it is. > GS500 > Common.
Cheap. No fairings to mess up. Looks arent too bad (i like the > nekkid/
half nekkid ones) Decent power so I can keep it for a while. This bike
will have carb problems after a while. They just wear out and you can't
get them to settle down at idle without a bit of work. This is a common
complaint from many of the racers I know who ride these things. I didn't
choose this when I bought the Ninja 250 because I didn't like the
fit/finish.
I guess most folks agree that with low humidity and
high temps, evaporative cooling works great and even better if you wear
a jacket, such as a Darien, First Gear, etc. But with very high humidity
such as we experience in coastal Texas, Florida, and Louisiana,
evaporative cooling doesn't cut it. BTDT, but I've discovered something
that works even better. http://glaciertek.com/cooling.htm When combined
with a fully zipped-up Darien, the Glaciertek CoolJacket will make you
COLD even if it's 110 and 90% humidity. Having the fully-sealed jacket
on makes the vest work like the heat pump of a central air unit, drawing
body heat to the CoolPacks . The vests aren't cheap and, yes, you need
to "recharge" the CoolPacks about every two hours. But you really can
get them frozen again with nothing more than a pitcher of ice-water AND
THEY WILL KEEP YOU VERY COOL. Like 65 degrees cool, regardless of the
outside temp. Wearing the jacket zipped up is analogous to having good
insulation on your house with these puppies, in so far as you're keeping
the hot air OUT so that the 'Packs can do their job of drawing the heat
off your body. I got mine last July (AFTER my SS1K unfortunately!) and
wore it on a daily basis through August and September, commuting at rush
hour in Houston traffic for a 60 mile round trip. For next summer, I'm
thinking of getting a second set of CoolPacks to keep in a small cooler
of ice water, so that I always have a set charged and cut down the time
I spend recharging. Highly recommended for those of us running in the
swamps down here!
> I wear a Darien jacket no matter what the weather
is Good thinking. > and carry Darien pants in the saddle bags. Excuse
me?? Obviously, the INSIDE OF YOUR SADDLE BAG means more to you than
your ass does? Wanna know why a lot of us opted for the one piece
Roadcrafter?? Keeps us from making *stupid* decisions about what part of
our bodies to protect - and when. What you choose to ride in is on you.
But here's a piece of "wisdom" you can decided the value of, in your
case. You spent a significant amount of money to buy quality "protective
riding gear", so you would minimize injuries in the event you fell, got
hit, airplane fell on you - who cares what the "disaster" is. Why in the
Hell would you now be so *stupid* to decide NOT to wear the gear you
spent all that hard earned cash on?? Decided you're a better rider now,
than when you bought the gear?? Bullshit. Too hot? Bullshit. Too much
trouble to put it on and take it off -- more bullshit. Normally, here's
where I say "don't take this wrong", "I don't mean to offend you", of "YMMV"
[it doesn't - common sense is common sense], but forget that. You
*can't* take this wrong - you're a jerk for not protecting yourself -
and ultimately your family - with the protective gear you *already own*.
Take this as bluntly I can possibly make it. You have one life. You have
one ass. You have two legs. **One fuck-up**, with your high dollar
protective gear in your saddle bag puts you on the injured list, could
put your family on the "financially challenged" list due to loss of
income from a lost knee-cap, shattered legs, or possibly worse, caused
by an "accident" you didn't "expect" [which - by the way is why they
call them accidents], and all that "you only have one of" shit halts
mercilessly. How could you be so *stupid*? It's your ass, but don't tell
us on the list how **stupid** you're going to be by NOT using common
sense and wearing the gear you spent so much money on! I make no
apologies that this may seem harsh, the fact is, I've seen too many
friends get hurt and crippled - *unnecessarily* - THAT OWNED THE GEAR
THAT WOULD HAVE PROTECTED THEM IF THEY WOULD HAVE BEEN WEARING IT! For
the record, I ALWAYS ride my Roadcrafter. Probably because I don't have
much riding experience [only 45 years] and I'm scared of falling and
don't know how to protect myself and control my bike [MSF Chief
Instructor]. Is it hot in the summer months - you bet. Here in the West,
we see temps of 110 - 115 pretty regularly. If It's too hot to ride with
my Roadcrafter - one piece - I don't ride. Get your shit together - you
own the gear - use it properly. Your saddle bags will never miss dem
pants............Your ass eventually WILL.
Many thanks to all who responded to my query about
a specific type of summer glove. While none matched exactly, I found
some great gloves. Chris Norloff The winners are: -Roadgear's Summer
Riding Gloves http://www.roadgear.com/gloves.html -Olympia's Sportster 1
http://www.olympiagloves.com/Pg06PerfGloves.jpg or Perforated Gel
http://www.olympiagloves.com/Pg05PerfGloves.jpg -Vanson's Indianapolis
or Sporty http://www.vansonleathers.com/store/glove_collection.asp Web
sites (in no particluar order): http://www.motorcyclegearreview.com/
http://www.roadgear.com http://www.olympiagloves.com http://www.vansonleathers.com
http://www.alpinestars.com/alpinestars.html http://www.classicgoggles.com/jrp.htm
http://www.kreamersports.com./ http://www.adventuremotogear.com/gloves.htm
http://www.aerostich.com/ http://www.fieldsheer.com/ http://www.joerocket.com/index.htm
http://www.motoport.com/ http://www.tourmaster.com/main.html http://www.zcustom.com/
http://www.thurlowleatherworld.com/ ---------- Original Message
---------------------------------- >> 1. all leather >> 2. full-fingered
(fingers covered) >> 3. vented >> 4. short (no gauntlet) >> 5. positive
retention - preferably a strap across >> the back of the wrist. >> 6.
not black - tan preferred. >> 7. Available in size 2XL
Check out the MiraCool Poncho at http://www.stageoneproductions.com/vstpnch2.html
as recommended last summer by Sam Lepore. I purchased one prior to my
trip across the southwestern deserts last summer and found it to be very
effective when worn under my perforated Vanson jacket. It works like the
bandanas that soak up water in the enclosed crystals and then release
that moisture very gradually over many hours depending on heat and
airflow. It works best in drier climates, but is still effective in
higher humidity as long as you have adequate airflow. When I first
received mine, the vest seemed so insignificant I thought I had been
ripped off. When the vest's crystals (is there a name for that stuff?)
are completely dry, they weigh next to nothing and take up a miniscule
amount of space. The completely dry vest will fold up and fit in a
pocket, but when soaked in water for 30 minutes must weigh at least 5 or
6 pounds! In fact it will hold so much water that I can barely get my
jacket on over it, so I usually only soak mine for a couple of minutes
and lightly squeeze the excess water out and then it fits easily under
my jacket and still cools for many hours in even the hottest weather.
You do end up with a damp shirt, so it might not be the best thing to
use on the way to the office, but for desert crossings it can't be beat.
One of the best $27.00 purchases I've ever made. (I tried it under my
Roadcrafter once, but there is so little air flow that no cooling seemed
to occur. I was just hot and wetter, but YMMV.)
Welcome to the fraternity of motorcyclists! Bear in
mind that all other motorists are of a single mind: to lull you, the
motorcyclist into a false sense of security, and then squish you like a
bug on the windscreen. Oh, they'll try and make it look like an
accident. An innocent lane change here, a left turn (from the right
lane) there, but make no mistake -- it is a deliberate attempt to kill
you. Think of yourself as a duck, and the cagers as the hunters in the
blind, and you'll get the idea You have but one defense from their
treachery: eternal vigilance. Look for the roof of the car lurking
behind the bushes for you to approach so it can back out. Look for the
turn of the wheels as buck fever seizes the driver of the car waiting
for you at the intersection. Watch for the tell-tale brake lights
signaling the impending left turn as you pass. Watch your mirror as they
pass the truck behind you and pull into your lane beside you. And watch
out for Volvos. More bikers are killed by Volvos than by any other
brand. When you spot the hunter, you have two means of avoidance:
Braking and swerving. Braking a bike is a little different than braking
a four wheeled cage. You may have noticed by now that both squeezing the
lever on the right handlebar, and pressing down on that tiny pedal under
your right foot will slow the bike. Both together works even better. But
maximum efficiency requires practice, lots of practice. Good tires and
dry pavement help too. Bikes don't deal well with salty, sandy, or wet
pavement. Oh yeah, and that slippery strip down the centre of the road
is called the "yellow line of death" for a reason... Swerving is also
acquired art, and counter-intuitive. Believe it or not, (at speed- say
20 mph or so) pushing forward on the left handlebar will make the bike
go left. No, that's not a typo, and it's so important, I'll say it
again: PUSHING FORWARD ON THE LEFT HANDLEBAR WILL MAKE THE BIKE GO
LEFT!!! And vice-versa. I told you it was counter-intuitive. Try it
yourself. Soon. Find an empty stretch of road, get her up to about 30,
move to the left side of your lane, take your left hand off the bar, and
g-e-n-t-l-y lean forward on the right bar. The bike will go right, I
promise. Of course, too vigorous a push, and the bike will go hard
right, but you won't, bringing us to our next point: Wear leather. I
don't care if it's hot out. Gloves, coat, boots, and a good helmet,
minimum. (Are you old enough to re. the old Bell slogan: If you've got a
$10 head, wear a $10 helmet?) If you like your ass: pants or chaps
complete the ensemble, but under no circumstances wear shorts -- they
look stupid with the leather coat. Always re., there are two kinds of
bikers: those that have had an accident, and those that are about to. If
you take one of those beginner courses (in Canada they're put on all
over the country by the Canada Safety Council, in the US by the
Motorcycle Safety Foundation), then you get to crash one of their bikes
instead of your own, and considering the cost of replacement parts, for
a very reasonable fee. The CSC course is great. They taught my wife
stuff in two weekends that took me years to learn. (You don't want to
know how I figured out about that handlebar thing). Three months
pregnant and they had her wheeling over logs, riding over
teeter-totters, jumping ramps, emergency braking, and swerving like a
pro. Interestingly enough, the hotshots who had been riding dirt bikes
on the farm since they were 12 (and therefore knew everything) didn't do
so well... Enjoy the sport, and ride safe!
I really don't want to get involved in the right or
wrong of tickets or the judicial system or blah, blah blah... I don't
see any change in the present system in the near or distant future.
However, I would like to provide the following guide lines that may or
may not be helpful. Standard disclaimers apply. YMMV These are my
opinions, but they are based on 19 years experience. Whether you get
cited from a traffic stop is really a crap shoot, IMHO. There are too
many variables involved. Every officer is different and each stop is
different. But here are, hopefully, some things to do and don't do: 1)
Signal and make a nice easy stop on the shoulder, as far to the right as
possible. Don't grab a handful of brakes and stop as quickly as you can.
You could be a hood ornament if he can't stop fast enough. Whether you
chose to stop right away or keep driving until the officer is behind you
is a decision you have to make. I vote for the former, if your clearly
the one being stopped. See #4 about admitting guilt. 2) Shut the bike
off. I prefer you to put the kickstand down and get off the bike, some
like you to stay on the bike. When in doubt, stay on the bike. Keep your
hands on the grips or hanging at your sides in plan view. DO NOT go
diving into your riding suit, tank bag, luggage or anywhere else,
reaching for your license. I will ask you for it in due time. This may
not seem like a big deal to you, but trust me, it's a big deal to us.
This will get mine, and most cops, adrenaline up to Higdon triple veiner
speed in about .0003 seconds. Tell the officer you need to reach into
your whatever to get the license, it's just common courtesy. 3) Take
your helmet off so I can match your smiling face to your drivers
license. 4) Be honest about your speed, at least within 5 mph. Believe
it or not (drum roll) people sometimes lie to police officers. I know
that is shocking, but it's true. :-) I'm much more inclined to cut a
break if I don't get a line of BS or phony charm. Be genuine and honest,
but don't overdue it either. :-) Yes, this could be admitting guilt and
if you get cited and take it to court, the officer is going to bring up
what you said. But I find that that rarely influences the judge (IMHO)
because he will probably give more weight to the officers testimony no
matter what you said during the stop. 5) Practice your excuse, if you
have one to give. I can tell ya, if you make me laugh, there's a good
chance you won't get a ticket!!! Lot's of negativity making stop after
stop. A good laugh is welcome, at least by me. One of the best I've
heard is "I'm sorry officer but I just trying to get home to my wife,"
"Yes Sir, why is that?" "Well officer, she's going to get pregnant
tonight and I was hoping to be there when it happens." I still laugh
about that one. "If this prevents even one ticket, won't it be worth
it?" ;-)
A quick background on me in case it matters:
New to motorcycling, 48 year old male living in Nova Scotia with summers
off for fair weather day trips riding my 1978 Kz400 with small
windscreen on mostly secondary highways at maximum speed of 100 km/h.
Currently, on my egg shaped head, I'm using a $99 size large Fox
full-face with clear visor that I purchased in a rush to use on the
motorcycle training program.
I recently purchased a small pair of tinted goggles from a Triumph
dealer that I can position on my forehead and carefully get the helmet
to slide over while at the same time sliding them down perfectly on my
eyes. I like to leave the face shield up on a sunny day and feel the
wind on my face but when I tried it with sunglasses the wind, dust and
debris seems to easily find its way around them.
I know my current helmet leaves much to be desired as far as fit and
structural integrity are concerned so I've decided to relegate it to
passenger status once I'm free of the Class 5A Learner no passenger rule
during my first 30 days of riding.
Is the Shoei modular/flip-up (with a good set of ear plugs) available in
at least four local bike shops my best option?
There's a BMW dealer about a three hours drive where I can also get a
Schuberth Concept or C2 if that's a better fit for my head size and
shape.
I have serious doubts about most of the $200 modulers ability to stay
locked during a mishap.
______________
Toy Motorcycle - Playground - Zooom
Post #21208
ibafran
9/30/2006 5:58:30 AM
. .
. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .
. 10:59:35 AM
. 951, Visits: 860
welcome to the forum.
that book, "proficient motorcycling" found on the forum page is a good
point. it covers most of the questions regarding basic gear.
whatever you decide to buy ought to fit snug without any pressure
points. if you ride a lot and wear your helmet a lot, it will loosen up
over a period of time. loose is not good. start as snug as possible. but
no pressure points.
i do not have a flip-up helmet as yet. my next helmet purchase will be a
flip-up. i have yet to see any reason that the flip-ups have any
problems with "structural integrity". one of the helmets that i looked
at had little red pins that popped up when the flip-up was properly
locked. i noted that i would need a second mortgage to buy the thing.
the basic technology is found in nearly all helmets. its the bells and
whistles features that make the prices jump. my concern is that the
flip-up feature ought to be operable with just one hand and it shouldnt
make a difference which hand i use.
the famous "hurt report" noted that any helmet was far superior to no
helmet. i like to suggust that new riders buy what they need and spend
every dollar available on riding lessons. after the basic lessons to get
licensed for the street, i like to see the new riders take an
introductory trials class. then, a track day that is aimed at bike
control at speed rather than race tactics. broaden your experience every
chance you get.
nobody rides half as well as they know how.
Post #21216
Ki
9/30/2006 6:57:06 PM
.
. . . . . . . .
. 11/26/2006 7:39:26 AM
. 16, Visits: 66
Thanks for the great advice. I just finished the motorcycle training
program (20 hours) a week and a half ago. I plan to take the advance
course but it doesn't start up again until March. I'm putting in lots of
cautious hours of recreational riding for now and getting use to the
newly learned skills, my bike, road conditions, traffic situations,
weather factors etc. I'll spend the next few days or so trying on
helmets to try and find that tight no pressure point fit. After fit and
quality, my priority is to get it in yellow or orange as I've read that
they are the most conspicuous colors. My bike is yellow but I've got a
spare tank, tail and side panels that I'm planning to paint orange over
the winter.
I've got half decent gloves and boots for now so after the helmet I'll
probably budget and look for an armour mesh jacket and pants.
______________
Toy Motorcycle - Playground - Zooom
Post #21220
pmdave
9/30/2006 7:00:48 PM
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. 4, Visits: 5
I've been wearing a Nolan "flip front" for several years, and like it.
Since it's getting well-used, I'm about to spring for a new Nolan.
Bear in mind that the major impact points on helmets (involved in
crashes) are the left and right chin. That's why the importance of a
full coverage helmet.
Before selecting the Nolan, (I also have an older Shoei modular) I
checked the latch mechanisms carefully. I want to see a metal latch
plate firmly secured to the shell, and metal latches in the chin bar.
The fit is very important. There should be no space between the EPS
liner and your skull. That is, you should be able to shake your head and
have the helmet move with your head, not swivel around. Note that
different manufacturers use different "headforms", some being more
oblong (i.e. Arai) and others more roundish (i.e. Nolan)
Because of that, I suggest you take a trip and visit a dealer (or
several dealers) who carry helmets, and try on different brands and
models. Alternatively, there are usually lots of helmets available at
large bike shows.
pmdave
Post #21221
Ki
10/1/2006 12:23:28 AM
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Thanks Dave, I'm calling around the bike shops on Monday to see who
carries the Nolan line. I just discovered the Nolan N102 on-line and
hope I can find one locally to try on. It even comes in a nice
conspicuous yellow and has an integrated 1/2 height sun visor that flips
down over the full face clear visor. Also its $100 less than the new
Shoei Multitec which also comes in the yellow but apparently isn't being
released until the end of October. If I can find a Nolan and it fits
good I doubt if I'll be able to wait to compare them. The Vega Summit II
which is the only other flip up that I could find in the yellow is $200
less than the Nolan but I'm not impressed with its general overall
quality let alone the quality of its locking mechanism.
______________
Toy Motorcycle - Playground - Zooom
Post #21227
OzarkHarleyGuy
10/1/2006 6:23:13 AM
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Hi Ki,
Welcome to a pretty kool forum with lots of good cycling "stuff." I
don't know what the weather is like where you are at but I'm guessing
its much colder where you are than where I am. So maybe one helmet will
suffice for your needs. It doesn't for mine. I have about 8 helmets. I
view them as tools. We all have more than just a crescent wrench in our
tool box, same way with helmets. Of course in you are just
your collection of "tools" a cresent wrench or whatever helmet you use
the most would be the logical first choice.
You may not have to deal with 110 degree temps with high humidity like I
do. On those days if I'm just "puttering" around a good half-helmet is
my choice just because a ff on those days is excrutiating. On the
super-slab with cooler temps a ff is the only way to go. That would be
my choice if only one helmet is considered for the cooler climates.
Good luck.
OzarkHarleyGuy
Harley RoadKing Classic '07
Post #21229
dragonmaster
10/1/2006 9:06:09 AM
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. 184, Visits: 286
I have a Nolan flip helmet with which I'm delighted. It's comfortable
for me and allows me to put my helmet on while still wearing my glasses
( the major reason I wanted a flip helmet).
Because none of the local bike stores carry more than one or two brands
of helmets (and no Nolan flips), I went to the winter bike show in DC to
try on several: Nolan, HJC, Shoei, Schuberth, etc. The Nolan was by far
the most comfortable for my fat head, XXL, and considerably less
expensive than the Shoei and Schuberth.
I bought the Nolan from the US Dist and they shipped it to me. I
replaced it a couple of years later mail-order. I've been quite happy
with it and recently added the integral sun visor.
My only complaint is the wind noise, but I wear ear plugs whenever I'm
going to be on the bike for more than 15 minutes.
Post #21237
Ki
10/31/2006 5:17:16 PM
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. 16, Visits: 66
I finally bought the Nolan N102 on-line ($300US incl. shipping-10 days)
and I've been using it for about a 2 weeks now - piling on the miles and
neglecting the forum (sorry). I have to say it's a keeper. Lucked out
with the fit. I found a bike shop that had a couple of old Nolan's
hanging around, one large (too loose) and one small (too tight) so I
ordered the medium and it's perfect.
The one handed flip-up feature is too cool but the flip down sun visor
is even cooler! It also stows nicely in the Givi storage unit I picked
up at my local scooter store the other day ($120Canadian installed).
______________
Toy Motorcycle - Playground - Zooom
Post #21618
SV-650Nut
11/1/2006 5:54:44 AM
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. 1/23/2007 4:58:52 AM
. 236, Visits: 171
Ki (10/31/2006)
Nice toy Ki - and playground!
The northeast corridor is the last remaining (major) trip on my list of
North American rides. I can't wait [BigGrin]
Post #21624
hallowedcontactpatch
11/1/2006 7:25:54 AM
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. 3/27/2007 4:26:09 AM
. 207, Visits: 317
Love that old KZ400 - reminds me of the days on my CB360T starter bike.
Just a general question here: are there any issues with the flip helmets
not being quite as safe as normal full facers? Don't think I saw any
comments on that in the responses. I have to wear glasses all the time
so a flip would be alot easier to don.
Ki, how is the noise level in that new Nolan? I
know my older flip is very loud and I have heard the newer one is
better.
Hallowedcontactpatch, good question with no definitive answer I have
been able to find. Some people say that they are not safe because none
are SNELL certified. I heard an interview of Ed Becker and he said there
were no flip front helmets certified because no one has submitted one
for testing and he wished someone would. You could conclude that the
manufacturers know they would not pass so they don't submit them. Or it
may be because the manufacturers fear the bad publicly of a rejection
when they don't have any history of what to expect with testing these
helmets. Maybe a magazine should test them. [Wink]
Torqueman
Battle Creek, MI
V-Strom 06
Goldwing 03
Post #21628
ibafran
11/1/2006 4:06:58 PM
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my stacks give no definative answer either. I cant even find a mention
of a FF chinbar being tested in any fashion. nor could i find any
mention of a flip bar being tested in any way. anecdotal evidence on the
flip bar is also nearly non-existant. that last bit speaks volumes to
me. when something like the flip bar lacks rumor and innuendo, it seems
like the perfect example of a non-issue to me.
on a purely personal perspective, i would have purchased a flip bar the
last time i needed to buy a helmet. the sole reason that i didnt was
because the race associations that i belong to required an update with a
snell sticker. i would have put an updated snell sticker in a flip
helmet if i thought that i could spirit it past the tech inspectors.
being basicly impecunious and a tightwad, i couldnt purchase two helmets
at the time. the go-fast and the LD budgets will not support separate,
purpose intensive gear.
i cant see any significant difference between the two structures in
safety performance at the speeds that i ride. the user friendliness of
the flip bar has to be the best choice. bikes dont run at tracks with a
lot of armco and other hard stuff. the flip bar should be good for that.
if you need to run a cage at speed, the FF might perform better way out
there at the very worst of it.
nobody rides half as well as they know how.
Post #21629
Gfurlo
11/3/2006 4:49:41 PM
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I read an article a year or so ago, but can not re. the magazine it was
in. I was on a long plane ride and I just bought 5 or 6 mags and read'm.
The up shoot, Snell strikes the full face with a down ward strike on the
chin. DOT strikes it straight on. If I re. they did not submit the
helmets but tested the helmet themselves. The chin bar folded down. They
also struck the chin bar up and all of the helmets flipped up, the
locking systems could not take the abuse. One of them took more strikes
or pressure to fail then the others but I can’t re. which one it was.
When I look at the flip ups, I think that the manufactures just do not
submit the flip ups to Snell because they would fail. If they built the
helmet to those standards the thing would weigh 10 pounds and you would
need a wrench to be able to unlock it and flip it up.
Having said that, it is legal to wear a 3/4 or even 1/2 helmet so the
flip up is safe just not quite as much as a full face. So once again you
need to decide how much risk you’re willing to take.
Gfurlo
Post #21651
Ki
11/5/2006 10:21:36 AM
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. 16, Visits: 66
Hi Torqueman,
The noise level is okay for me as I wear ear plugs pretty well all the
time. It's been pretty stormy here lately and every once in a while a
strong cross wind sends cold air through the 'not so airtight' seam on
the side of the helmet.
Other posters concerned with flip-up structural integrity should take
comfort in the DOT tests and base their risk tolerance on that. Although
I wouldn't by a cheap flip-up or any helmet by a discount manufacturer
even with the DOT stamp.
I don't put any stock in Snell approval anymore since the beating they
took in the recent Motorcycle Magazine expose.
______________
Toy Motorcycle - Playground - Zooom
Post #21657
ibafran
11/5/2006 10:54:24 AM
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[b]Ki (11/5/2006
I don't put any stock in Snell approval anymore since the beating they
took in the recent Motorcycle Magazine expose.
dang. i missed that expose'. which mag was that in and when?
nobody rides half as well as they know how.
Post #21658
Ki
11/5/2006 7:25:03 PM
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. 16, Visits: 66
It's a long read but well worth the time I thought.
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/gearbox/motorcycle_helmet_review/
______________
Toy Motorcycle - Playground - Zooom
Post #21664
wolfen42
4/27/2007 9:38:42 AM
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[quote]Ki (11/5/2006)It's a long read but well worth the time I thought.
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/gearbox/motorcycle_helmet_review/[/quote]
Of particular interest is the very end of that article where the SNELL
foundation responds and then has their reponse shredded by the article
writer.
Essentially, the SNELL foundation's response was to basically ignore
large chunks of the article and attempt some misdirection by claiming
the MO testing was only on flat surfaces.
Even better was the part where SNELL claimed that there was no research
showing that reducing G-force in an impact below 300Gs would
have any positive effect.
(In response to an article that just listed all sorts of studies saying
that even impacts around or below 200Gs could cause significant damage?)
Certainly shook my faith in the almighty SNELL a bit.
I am a newbie to motorcycles, but I am looking for
a semi-fast bike. A couple of people mentioned I look into the ninja 500
but it doesn't look great. I was thinking about Suzuki gsxr600...or Kaw
zzr600. Or a cruiser... I am really lost on the subject any ideas?
Also would you suggest buying a used bike from a dealer for a little bit
more money or buying a used bike from a private person.
Thanks
Post #25580
BeemoKat
4/27/2007 7:23:09 AM
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. 4/27/2007 7:12:06 AM
. 14, Visits: 17
Well, I can't help but think that a 600cc sport bike isn't a good idea
for a beginner, too much power, too twitchy. I can't make any specific
recommendations, you have to figure out what kind of riding you really
want to do. Buying a used bike from a dealer is probably a good idea (I
didn't go that way, but I had some good resources for troubleshooting a
used private sale bike), gives you some options for trades and sometimes
even a limited warranty.
Good luck, and let us know what you end up getting.
Wherever You Go, There You Are!
Post #25581
TwoWheels
4/27/2007 9:42:01 AM
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Alienorchick,
I'm no expert by any means as I started riding full-time a few months
ago. I've ridden motorcycles since before I could drive a car but I've
never owned one so my riding experience has been very limited. Like
BeemoKat stated, you're just going to have figure out what kind of
riding you want to do. I can see myself on all sorts of motorcycles (and
will probably wind up with a fleet in the garage at some point if I'm
not careful). I like sport touring cycles best but I also took a long
honest look at myself and how I thought I was going to ride the bike. I
wound up getting a Ninja 650R for a number of reasons but mostly because
I felt comfortable on it. I still feel that way after 800 miles.
Too many people get over-biked in the beginning and quickly wind up over
their heads, in the ditch or dead.
The Brits took all the guess work out the decision with their
regulations, maybe that's not a bad way to go.
Thanks.
Post #25583
wolfen42
4/27/2007 10:05:00 AM
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. . . . . . . .
. 4/27/2007 10:05:00 AM
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First thing. Go to http://www.beginnerbikers.org . If you can convince
the people in the starter bikes forum there that you should get a 600cc
or larger sportbike then go get one.
Just keep telling yourself. "It's my first bike not my only bike"
It's really hard to get a decent sportbike looking bike for someone who
is genuinely just beginning to ride and isn't willing to ride a Ninja
250 or 500.
You might want to consider getting a Ninja 650R and installing the
limiter screw in the throttleplate. The 650R is normall a really BAD
starter bike since it has substantially more torque than the 600s out
there and that makes it even twitchier at the point where a beginner
really needs a predictable bike.
Me, I'm happily riding around on my Ninja 250. I can keep up with or
pass my WRX and go 100mph without too much trouble. Why would I want
anything else for a starter bike? Best part is it only cost me $1800 and
I can resell it in a couple years for just about the same amount.
My friend who bought a 650R for his first bike and didn't install that
throttle plate screw? He only got to ride his bike once, he has a
fractured rib and shoulderblade, his cost for parts to repair his bike
will be more than what I spent on my bike... need I go on?
He was wearing full gear and a helmet and was driving carefully around
his neighborhood but it was his first time on a bike so he hadn't had
time to build up the proper reflexive responses yet. Combine that with a
sensitive throttle and gobs of torque and guess what you get.
I'm bummed because I have nobody to ride with now and he's bummed
because he has a beautiful new bike that sits in the garage while he
waits for a new triple tree to arrive.
Post #25586
Rootie
4/27/2007 12:37:36 PM
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Allenorchick - take a motorcycle riding course first. You will
accomplish two things: First, you will get expert training in the
correct and safe operation of a motorcycle. Second, you will have the
opportunity to use their bikes which usually are lighter and more nimble
than a lot of street bikes. Plus, your instructor may know of a decent
starter bike for sale that would be appropriate for your skill level.
Don't, and I repeat, DON'T ride with a passenger until you are
comfortable with the mechanics of riding and have quite a bit of
experience and riding time under your belt.
My first motorcycle was an old Kawaski 175 two stroke. It was a street
bike, but it was so light I could pick it up myself. So when I was first
learning to ride I would take a lot of the old, sandy dirt roads here in
South Jersey. Even though it had street tires if I ever bogged down in
sand I would just lift it out. I learned a whole lot about what a
motorcycle does and doesn't do, fell plenty of times but was never
injured because I wasn't going fast and soft sand is a lot more
forgiving than asphalt.
I then concentrated on riding in the streets with the crazies. After I
became fairly competent I bought a larger and more powerful bike.
You don't need a heavy or powerful bike for your first bike since it's
just a temporary starter bike. You don't need a sportbike or large
cruiser. You don't need a full fairing (maybe a small windshield) and
saddlebags. Go simple. Then, while you're learning to ride you will also
have a lot of fun researching your next bike.
Now, let me get this right - is it one down, four up?
Post #25588
torqueman
4/27/2007 4:48:44 PM
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Group: Administrators
. Yesterday @ 6:22:02 PM
. 2,453, Visits: 949
Welcome to the forum Allenorchick. Rootie gives good advice. Take the
MSF class.
http://nm.msf-usa.org/msf/ridercourses.aspx
Also check the pinned topic at the top of this forum. There is lots of
good advice in that thread. Most people here will not recommend you
start on a 600cc sport bike. Wear good gear and buy used for your first
bike. Trade up in a year.
Post with some used bikes you have found and we can give you the pros
and cons of the different models. Really a used Ninja 500 is a great
starter bike in my opinion and a year from now you will be able to sell
it for nearly as much if you don't scratch it up too bad.
Torqueman
Battle Creek, MI
V-Strom 06
Goldwing 03
Post #25591
motormule
4/27/2007 6:00:36 PM
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. Yesterday @ 6:49:59 PM
. 127, Visits: 96
I agree with the other posters . A lighter motorcycle with lots of power
may not be the proper first ride of choice .
Take your time , do your research , talk with other riders .
Motorcycling is a dangerous pursuit , plain and simple . I have a scant
two years of street experience......I have several years of off road
riding.....broke a collarbone doing that.....stuff does happen .
Enrolling in a motorcycle safety class first , getting some initial
exposure to the dynamics of being up on two wheels.......
Put the horse in front of the cart ....do it right.....
Motormule
2005XL1200C
Seattle , Wa.
Post #25594
ST-TLW
4/27/2007 9:23:49 PM
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. 9:29:11 AM
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I agree with everyone else that a 600 sportbike is not a good starter
bike. There are some older 500 and 600 almost sportbikes or standards
that make decent starter bikes. A 600 cruiser and 600 sportbike aren't
in the same league. A 600 cruiser can be a decent starter bike. If the
cruiser style is what you're looking for.
What do the people you'll be riding with ride?
Post #25602
Alienorchick
4/28/2007 3:37:05 PM
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. 5/3/2007 9:12:42 PM
. 9, Visits: 9
Thanks everyone your posts have been really helpfull!
I did take the motorcycle training course and I am proud to say that I
have my license, I also have my gear the only thing I need is the bike.
The people I ride with are mostly male and have bikes 600cc and higher,
ranging from custom cruisers to sportsbikes. I have been told to take it
easy but buy a 600cc bike because anything lowerI will get bored riding
after 2 months.
-I might go with the ninja but I am not sure.
THanks again everyone!
Post #25615
torqueman
4/29/2007 7:43:36 AM
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Group: Administrators
. Yesterday @ 6:22:02 PM
. 2,453, Visits: 949
Glade to hear you got the class.
I have been told to take it easy but buy a 600cc bike because anything
lowerI will get bored riding after 2 months.
I think this is a good argument for buying used. When you do get to
where you want to move up in 6 months or a year you can sell it for what
you paid if you have not added too many scratches to it.
Truth is many of us get new bikes every year or two. It is just the
nature of the sport to want to try another bike for a few months. I
would bet that what ever bike you choose you will be looking at the new
models a year from now.
A few random thoughts...
Don't completely discount a smaller bike. They tend to be lighter and
cheaper. Lighter tranlates to easier handling and a better rate of
progression for learning due to lack of intimidation. You'll learn
cornering and appreciate what it takes to keep momentum up as opposed to
having raw power on tap to make up for shortcomings in corners by
straight line acceleration. That requires little skill and can bring on
legal and health troubles.
Buying a starter bike doesn't mean you are stuck with it.
The group that you ride with needs careful consideration. If they're not
willing to work with you and your beginner status you need to seriously
rethink your friendship with them. They should exhibit patience and not
push you to get in over your head. If they do this they're not exactly
the best group of friends you can find.
Not to be chauvanistic, but women tend to have shorter inseams. You need
to look at seat height as an important factor for bike selection. As you
gain experience and confidence this may lose it's importance (I knew of
a rider that would flip his side stand down at traffic lights and back
up on take off, he couldn't be beat in the dirt).
If you aren't really tall the cruiser market may be what you need to
start with as these tend to have some of the lower seat heights. You can
lower some bikes successfully, but this is an added expense/trouble and
can alter handling to some degree. If it is done correctly you'll lose
ground clearance and lean angle. It can also affect steering if not done
evenly front and rear.
New to the forum, hope you don't mind if I jump in.
One thing that happens all the time is that we go on a trip, and when we
get back, someone says, "Did you see....?" Seems like there's always
something we miss, just because we weren't told about it in advance.
So...in that vein, I'd like to start this thread by pointing out a
really nice ride that is missed by a lot of people.
If you visit the Mount Rushmore National Monument, you'll be seeing
something worth visiting. But, when you leave, take highway 224 east and
north toward Keystone. Watch for Alternate Highway 16 south, which is a
way you can get to Custer (through Custer State Park). You don't have to
go that far, though. Ride south and you will go through three or four
"pigtail curves," each with a short tunnel (and be glad you're on a bike
and not in a big motor home!). If you look back through each of the
tunnels, you'll find Mount Rushmore framed by the tunnel! That explains
the strange curve leading to the tunnel.
Post #25707
Rootie
5/4/2007 5:25:35 AM
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. 8:47:33 AM
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Mrblanche - if that's the road leading to Mt. Rushmore with all the
tunnels and banked curves, then I was on it years ago. Plus, there were
wild donkeys or something all over the shoulder of the road. As a
motorcyclist it was so outstanding of a ride that when I finally reached
the top the carved faces in the mountain were kind of anti-climatic.
There are two ways you can travel. One, just jump on your bike and go.
If you see an interesting road, take it. Stay away from tourist traps
and see what's left of the real world. Or, you can research your trip
through books, magazines and the internet. If you do it thoroughly
enough, you won't miss anything.
Now, let me get this right - is it one down, four up?
Post #25734
torqueman
5/4/2007 4:12:14 PM
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Group: Administrators
. Yesterday @ 6:22:02 PM
. 2,453, Visits: 949
Been there got the picture. Don't click on it if you have dialup cuz it
is huge.
http://www.motorcycletouring.net/touring/sd/IMG_0662.JPG
One place I have been that all I can tell you about it's location is it
is in the MI UP is Lakenland. In the middle of BFE this guy created a
junk yard sculpture park. He has some fantastic art work. Here is a link
to my ride report and you can see some of the work about half way down
the page.
http://www.motorcycletouring.net/Michigan%20Lighthouses%2006%202.htm
I see his web site is a dead link right now. I know the township was
trying to close him down (the fools had no idea the treasure they have
there) so maybe they seceded.
If you are visiting the Blue Ridge Parkway one of the strangest places
in the US is Judaculla Rock. It is unknown who made it but it has some
of the oldest hieroglyphics in the US.
http://shadowboxent.brinkster.net/judaculla.html
I always wear my tin foil hat when I am around it so the aliens can't
mess with my brain with their mind scan waves. [Hehe]
Torqueman
Battle Creek, MI
V-Strom 06
Goldwing 03
Post #25746
OzarkHarleyGuy
5/4/2007 8:35:04 PM
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. 1,545, Visits: 849
I have a similar pic minus the two suvs. Wonder what happened to them?
OzarkHarleyGuy
Harley RoadKing Classic '07
Post #25752
Rootie
5/4/2007 8:54:56 PM
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. 8:47:33 AM
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Torque - you don't need tin foil, your motorcycle helmet will do just
fine in protecting you from alien rays. Just make sure it has the DOT
approved alien ray deterrent sticker.
Maybe MCN can do a comparative study to see what helmet is most
effective in countering alien (definition: cell phone signals) rays.
Now, let me get this right - is it one down, four up?
Post #25754
deadman
5/4/2007 9:27:11 PM
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Heck I'd just like to know which lid is best at deflecting cellphone
users!
Why is it that those that know the least, so often know it the loudest?
All of us took up motorcycling for many different
reasons......
Is it the attraction to a means of transportation that is dynamically
more physically and mentally demanding than operating on the road on
four wheels ?
Is it a call to experience a closer exposure to the natural
elements...wind , sun , scenery , foul weather or freedom.....the kind
that cannot experienced in a cage ?
We all take great pride in our scoots of choice....sportbikers ,
adventure tourers , and HD riders.....is our personal choice of machines
and our resulting identity as a . of a particular genre of motorcyclists
a decisive factor ?
Motorcycles are a much more economic means of transport than cars ,
especially with the price of fuel skyrocketing these days....
Every time I swing my leg over the saddle I am at much greater risk of
serious injury or death than I am flopping down in the driver's seat of
my Subaru.....on my motorcycle I achieve a spiritual connection
......not to risk is not to live , IMHO .....and I always give thanks
when I arrive back home , energized , exhilerated , and happy !
What's your take ?
Motormule
2005XL1200C
Seattle , Wa.
" A vacant mind is a terrible thing to waste " .
Post #25788
Rootie
9:16:09 AM
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. 387, Visits: 359
Obviously Mule, motorcyclists share that sense of freedom and the joy of
riding on two wheels. If you ride, you know. If you don't ride, you
can't understand it.
I shy away from joining brand specific groups because they tend to have
the attitude that their brand is superior and other bikes are inferior.
This isn't always the case, but it happens enough that I like the
freedom to choose my bikes and keep an open mind as to whom I ride with.
After years of riding I am aware of the inherent dangers of riding on
two wheels with the crazies in cages and trucks. My riding style is
super defensive and super conservative as a result. It does take some of
the joy out of riding, but there is enough left over to still make
riding enjoyable.
Riding a bike is definitely economical, but unless you live in a climate
like Southern California, etc. it is not practical unless you like rain,
snow, ice, freezing temps, salt laden roads, dead bug guts, etc.
However, absence makes the heart grow fonder and maybe waiting out the
bad months makes us all have something to look forward to come spring.
Now, let me get this right - is it one down, four up?
Post #25797
Godzilla
9:43:58 AM
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. 9:35:03 AM
. 276, Visits: 330
I consider the economical and environmental benefits of riding as side
benefits actually. The challenges are OK, too: Dealing with traffic and
road conditions, weather and so on. When I started riding, I would
probably have to say it was a lifestyle statement, wanting to do the
Biker Thang.
But 7 years later? I ride because, well, it is simply fun. I didn't get
into the leathers and vests and 'posing'. I now am pretty much ATGATT,
full faced helmet and so on. I don't wear the chaps and rarely wear the
leather jacket and vest or the half-shell helmet. I enjoy the smells and
the curves. I simply just like to ride.
Godzilla
1985 BMW K100
Post #25798
Rootie
12:29:34 PM
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. 8:47:33 AM
. 387, Visits: 359
The smells! Good post Godzilla. The smell of pine forests, salt air, the
fresh, clean smell of the first wave of northerly air in the fall, even
the odor of fertilizer when riding through farmland. What a great
sensory experience!
Now, let me get this right - is it one down, four up?
Post #25806
torqueman
4:35:02 PM
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. . . . . . . .
Group: Administrators
. Yesterday @ 6:22:02 PM
. 2,453, Visits: 949
Oh yes the smell of rotting possum. [Smile]
Me I saw Easyrider and had to be on two wheels. I admit it was the life
style thing that attracted me and the sport side that kept me going.
Economics of riding a bike? They never worked for me. I am positive I
spend more per bike mile than car mile. With gear, tires every 10K, and
generally higher maintenance cost the bike is always more than a car
(and I do most of my own maintenance.) Of course the bike miles win on
the fun factor. But that is another point for how costly the bike is.
You see I spend $20 to $40 on gas every weekend that I would not spend
in the car just to ride around. Nope the extra I spend can never offset
the little bit of gas I save going back and fourth to work.
Torqueman
Battle Creek, MI
V-Strom 06
Goldwing 03
Post #25809
Rootie
7:02:05 PM
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. 8:47:33 AM
. 387, Visits: 359
But Torque - you are riding a luxury motorcycle. The costs have to be
higher than a 250cc bike. Tires for a big, powerful bike are more
expensive and wear quicker. Gas mileage is reduced also. A new Goldwing
starts at $18,000 and goes up quickly.
I'm sure it's more economical to drive a Toyota Corolla than a Hummer.
It's the same with bikes. However, you do raise a good point. There are
less and less smaller displacement street bikes out on the road. It
seems that everyone that buys a bike wants the full monty. And the
operating costs go up as the size goes up.
Last week one of the posters actually apologized for having a 250cc
bike. I don't think he was intimidated by the .s of this forum, but
someone must be needling him to get that defensive about his ride.
Now, let me get this right - is it one down, four up?
Post #25815
Farmer Guy
9:17:31 PM
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. . . . . . . .
. Yesterday @ 8:52:12 PM
. 16, Visits: 64
[BigGrin] I dunno, I ride because its fun?
Certainly not beacause it's practical (oh wait - yeah, it CAN be
practical! If you don't mind gearing up, riding in rain, wind or cold!)
Nothing like going around on a 45-mph sweeper leaned over at a 45-degree
angle!
And, oh yeah, I do enjoy the smells! Last year, on my first ride in 20
years, I had forgotten how great the lilacs smell this time of year!!
you just don't get that same experience in the cage. And also, you get
to inhale those wonderful hog manure fumes every spring, fall and almost
any other time of the year! You'll say "Is this heaven? No - it's Iowa."
Post #25818
OzarkHarleyGuy
@ 5:31:07 AM
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. . . . . . . .
. Yesterday @ 6:02:48 PM
. 1,545, Visits: 849
For me it was a spiritual decision: I did it for women and beer.
OzarkHarleyGuy
Harley RoadKing Classic '07
Post #25821
jerseyjim
@ 5:55:23 AM
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. 3:58:06 AM
. 883, Visits: 431
C'mon guys....stop the "why I ride" platitudes of enviroment, economy,
blah blah blah.
We ride....because we are, basically at heart, REBELS! [Smile]
Me...ever since a small kid....liked motorcycles. Didn't know nuthin'
about them...but I really like the looks of the Royal Enfield...and the
Harley dresser. Not knowing a flathead from a panhead (at the time) or a
vertical from a V.....just looking at the pictures and watching the (at
the time) presumed social misfits that rode them....I knew somehow
biking was for me.
Then...in the late 50's, in Miami, I stumbled upon a Miami H-D dealer. I
re....a REAL dealer....complete with dirt floor. But....sitting in the
middle was the most beautiful thing in the world. A H-D dresser , blue,
of course, with whitewall tires, white saddlbags and a windshield. Musta
been a Panhead....hadda be....and then...I KNEW. Hooked on the drug even
without a syringe. Nor a license. Nor any money...and Mommy said "of
course not". Dad smirked and walked away.
Now, on my 7th motorcycle...a '92 EVO dresser (who ever thought I'd have
a bike 15 years? Surely not I...bought it new in '92...runs just
fine....I'm 65...why bother?)
I must be the only guy in the world who wants a dresser (of ANY make)
without....a radio. Or a tape/CD player. Actually , what do I need a
radio for? I KNOW the weather....I'm right in the middle of it. News? I
ride to escape. Music? Listen to the motor. Boston Pops, babe..... I
just sit back, enjoy the ride, and just....enjoy.
Love it.
Post #25823
Rootie
@ 8:51:36 AM
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. 8:47:33 AM
. 387, Visits: 359
JJ - we're on the same page. I ride to escape. Escape to me means no
radio, no tape player, no GPS, no notebook computer, no nuttin!
Just heavenly incommunicado!
Now, let me get this right - is it one down, four up?
yes. yes...yes. if i was laying on the shrink's
couch, these are all the thoughts i would be expressing as my mind
slowly slowly sank down through the levels of my being towards the
immutable core of my soul. scratched on the surface of that mustard seed
sized ebon of unobtainium amongst the craters and fissures is the purest
reason why i ride bikes. "stick it to the Man". bwah-ha-ha...(evil
laugh)
nobody rides half as well as they know how.
Post #25831
motormule
@ 7:05:32 PM
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. Yesterday @ 6:49:59 PM
. 127, Visits: 96
Yes , Ibafran , I agree with you . Good post .
I really need a ride right now.......it could do me good.....
But I'm pooped......a long day at the salt mine......
I'm safer on the couch than in the saddle......
Motormule
2005XL1200C
When they first came on the market over a decade
ago, modular (flip-face) helmets were something I would never wear, or
recommend to friends. The chinbar retention systems and general
structural integrity of this type of helmet construction just wasn't
stout enough, in my opinion, to provide the proper level of protection,
despite DOT approval. I even gave seminars around the country where I
would demonstrate their weakness on stage by breaking the
chinbars loose with my bare hands.
But both design and materials technology have come a long way in the
ensuing years, and now there are more than a few modulars on the market
that I feel I cannot only recommend, but wear almost everyday myself.
Among the best are the Schuberth, the Caberg (also sold as Jarow and
Arow), the HJC and the Shoei. Beware, though, that there are still a
fair number of Chinese-built knock-off modulars being sold, particularly
on the Internet, that use things like plastic chinbar latches. Avoid
these like the plague.
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