Safe Motorcycle

If you've ever had your bike pilfered, you know all about the anger, denial and empty feelings arising out of that traumatic experience. A better option than running off to your psychiatrist, though, is getting yourself psyched up about preventing the theft of your pride and joy in the first place. To protect your ride, you have to be more determined than the bad guys. Luckily, there are plenty of security systems at your disposal, and with a little forethought your precious scooter should be able to withstand street prowlers in search of an easy heist.

Job one is decreasing your motorcycle's theft potential. Thieves of opportunity, for instance, can be kept at bay by devices such as quality disc locks, chains, cable locks or U-locks. The crooks will have to defeat this stuff on-site, so they'll usually move on in search of an easier target.

More serious criminals favor what's known as "lift-away theft": a group of beefy lads drive around in a large vehicle and, upon spotting a desirable target, lift the unlucky two-wheeler, locks and all, into their truck. Your best bet against this is to secure your machine to an immovable object, such as a permanent structure or in-ground anchor. This isn't always practical, but it's the superior way to stop thieves from rolling your ride away.

For equipment, make sure you get quality stuff. For instance, cheapie locks sport diecast components that're easily defeated with common hand tools. Better locks have hardened steel shackles and cylinders that require torches or grinders to remove.

We sought examples of the different locking systems on the market. They range from high-end hasps to items you can scrounge at your local hardware store; so really, you have no reason to leave your pride and joy at risk.

ABUS Granit Extreme 59/180HB: $159

German lock-maker ABUS has a great reputation in parts of theft-heavy Europe, so we rushed to procure one of its products. While we received the Granit Extreme 59 U-lock a bit late, we weren't otherwise disappointed.

The 16mm-thick Granit Extreme features a square parabolic shackle with a hardened steel construction that's said to offer maximum resistance against bolt-cutters. The trick ABUS-X-Plus double-locking cylinder features more than a million key variations for a high level of pick-proofness. The shackle is sheathed in a rubberlike cover to protect your finish against scratches, and a sliding cover shields the keyhole from dirt. The company recommends the Granit for securing "high-risk two-wheelers against all types of violent or intelligent methods of opening," but the heft, weight and shape of the Granit suggest that hauling it around town won't exactly be a breeze.

At First Glance: Big and brawny, intimidating cylinder mechanism

Upon Closer Inspection: Hefty stuff, awkward shape

Bully 10mm disk lock: $25

Your basic, first line of defense should be a quality disc lock that will provide a visual deterrent as well as slowing the thief down should he home in on your ride. The Bully Lock is an affordable, portable addition to your arsenal—made of hardened forged steel, the security cylinder features an anti-drill ball pin and 100,000 key variations. The 10mm hardened-steel lock pin provides a tough obstacle to the bad guys, and the bright yellow cover is vinyl-coated for protection from scratches.

It's small, so you can carry it with you anywhere for peace of mind, and it won't clean out your wallet. Just remember to remove it before you ride away!

At First Glance: Bright and easily seen for good visual deterrence; portable

Upon Closer Inspection: Fairly easily defeated, and not much good in a lift-away theft

Bully U-shaped Disc Lock (via Tucker Rocky): $35

Your first, basic line of defense should be a quality disc lock, and the Bully Disc Lock is a versatile example that offers a one-two punch to boot. Its double-roller-bearing locking mechanism, hardened anti-drill discs and eight-disc hardened steel cylinder make it a reliably stout choice for basic supplemental defense, and its low $35 price makes it one of the most affordable bike locks on the market.

For easy transport and an effective visual deterrent, the Bully Disc Lock is tough to beat. Its specially heat-treated alloy steel construction is said to resist cutting, and a nifty keyhole cover keeps dirt out to ensure smooth operation in inclement weather. The shackle is covered in soft plastic to protect your paint job from copious scratching, and two keys come with the unit.

At First Glance: Stout, beefy design, compact

Upon Closer Inspection: Simple lock mechanism seems like it'd be easily defeated; don't forget to remove it before you ride away!

Cobralinks Cable Lock (via Harley-Davidson): $200

The only place we could find these high-end chains was through Harley-Davidson Parts and Accessories. But since Cobralinks are well-known and well-regarded (and pricey), we felt it was worth the effort. The hardened stainless steel links cover seven strands of top-quality aircraft cable, which give them good flexibility combined with, according to Cobralinks, "the strength of a hardened steel bar." Installation is fairly straightforward—just slide the links through the Cobrahead and snap the lock into a substantial-looking key lock.

The Cobralinks certainly look impressive, and only a very determined and knowledgeable thief would even try to break that cable. Cobralinks come in 6-, 8-, 10- and 12-foot lengths, with 3¼4 or 1-inch outside diameters, weigh 10-15 pounds and roll up into an 11-inch coil so you can take them with you. We've heard you can call the manufacturer and order it directly for a more reasonable price, though if you ride an expensive bike, these might prove to be cheap insurance. Three keys are included with the patented setup, which is available at Harley dealers nationwide.

At First Glance: Sleek and sexy

Upon Closer Inspection: Heavy and solid, not very portable, might scratch paint

Kryptonite New York Disc Lock & Fahgettaboudit Security Chain: $200

Kryptonite calls this its "ultimate motorcycle lock for high-theft danger areas." Along with a catchy moniker, the brawny Fahgettaboudit chain-and-lock combo features hexagonal chain links made of triple-heat-treated steel. The unique shape of these links is said to repel attacks from bolt-cutters, saws, chisels and hammers, and the links' narrow inner width stymies leverage assaults, too. A protective nylon sleeve offers a buffer betwixt the hard stuff and your shiny steed, and allows you to coil up the heavy metal with a bit more ease.

The included New York Disc Lock (also available separately) sports a through-hardened half-inch steel shackle that's said to defy those very same bolt-cutters and saws. A new Pik-safe disc-style cylinder (which implies pick-proof protection) and a steel sleeve over the crossbar up the security ante on this device. The double deadbolt locking mechanism claims extensive holding power, and a sliding dust cover shuts out the elements. The Fahgettaboudit offers $1000 anti-theft protection in the U.S.A. and Canada and comes with a limited lifetime warranty and key registration. With this hefty 12-pound chain you'll probably feel a bit less vulnerable in the naked city.

At First Glance: It'll take a battalion of thieves to open up this bad boy

Upon Closer Inspection: One heavy mother; limited portability

MasterLock Python 6-inch Adjustable Cable Lock: $30

The beauty of the Python Adjustable Cable is that you can use it almost anywhere. Its claim of "the world's first fully adjustable locking cable that's always the right length" may be hyperbolic, but the patented locking mechanism does indeed hold the cable secure at any position for easy installation.

You simply insert the cable into the lock, pull tight and turn the key. The cable fits into the tough aluminum-alloy cylinder with a three-position keyhole (lock, cinch or unlock) that lets you pull and cinch the cable for secure lock-down. The lock is designed to allow only one-way cable movement when the key is in the cinch position, holding the cable in place until you turn the key. The cut-resistant, six-foot multistrand steel cable sports a black non-scratch cover to protect your bike's finish; a black ABS side cover on the lock does the same. The cable diameter is just 3¼8 inches with the cover, so you can use it to secure helmets or jackets to your bike when not employing it for bike security. The cable coils compactly for storage and includes two keys.

At First Glance: Adjustable, versatile and relatively portable

Upon Closer Inspection: Not very stout, more of a supplemental defense measure

Master Lock Street Cuff 9-Link: $90

These shackles are by far the coolest security system on the block. With such features as a heat-treated lock cylinder and a pushbutton keyless locking mechanism, they also offer legitimate defense measures. An ABS bumper prevents annoying paint scratches, and a pivot design yields more lock-down versatility—you can swivel the individual cuffs around to fit a variety of scenarios. The handcuff design also means they're relatively compact and lightweight; you can fold them in half for easy transport. Plus they come with a nifty tool-roll style case.

The three-inch cuffs fit your bike's fork legs or frame, and can be secured to signposts, parking meters or another bike easily. The heat-treated patented lock core is said to be virtually pick-proof, and the pushbutton keyless locking feature offers convenience in tight spots, too. The Street Cuffs come in several sizes so you can get longer link length depending on your application.

At First Glance: Design offers no fixed anchor point, so it's hard to jack. Portable. You can also play good cop/bad cop off the bike

Upon Closer Inspection: Awkward shape, needs specific-size anchor point for cuffs to lock to

Targa Lever Lock: $78

Better to use a variety of locks, right? This billet baby from Targa fits the bill nicely, and with a choice of chrome or billet finish, your cruiser's cool quotient won't be unnecessarily diminished in the name of security. Utilizing a pin-tumbler key lock, the Lever Lock installs easily from a seated position on your scooter, immobilizing the lever and providing a visual deterrent to thieves. As an addition or alternative to a disc lock, the Targa Lever Lock is a good choice to stymie thieves. With a Lever Lock, there's also less of a chance of driving off with it in place, so you'll avoid the painful embarrassment of dumping your bike right in front of your buddies (we've all been there). The Targa Lever Lock clamps onto the throttle or left hand-grip holding brake or clutch lever, and will fit all sport, tour bikes and cruisers, including Harley-Davidsons. Remember, grip sizes vary by model and year, so be sure to verify your size (to ensure the right fit, use a strip of paper to measure your grip circumference).

At First Glance: Lightweight and portable

Upon Closer Inspection: Not for primary defense; use with another lock for full security

Trimax TG3048SX Locking Cable: $38

Trimax's 32mm beefy locking cable is a great visual deterrent from the get-go. The non-scratching plastic-covered braided stainless steel and armor-plated steel cups appear intimidating, and the ballistic polymer lock housing resists hammer strikes. A plastic cover protects the keyhole from foreign matter.

It's available in three lengths, 36-, 48- or 72-inch, and it's flexible for easy transport.

At First Glance: Beefy, visually intimidating

Upon Closer Inspection: Simple locking mechanism

Anchors and Exotic Electronics
Bike Brace

Permanent options, of course, are best—when the locking mechanism on your bike is secured to the ground, it's one less point of entry for the thief. Products such as Kryptonite's Stronghold and the Bike Anchor are both U-shaped steel anchors made to be embedded in your garage floor for real protection. With a heavy-duty chain and lock inserted through the frame and anchors, your bike's stoutly secured.

Operating on a similar principle is the new Bike Brace, a plasma-cut steel plate that also mounts to a permanent surface. A precision-ground one-inch shaft contained within inserts through a bike's wheel. An industrial-grade padlock, mounting hardware and instructions are included; a shell on the side protects the padlock from bolt-cutters for effective security. Owner Jay Heerens says plans are in the works for a cruiser-specific anchor system to be unveiled sometime next year. For more information see www.bikebrace.com.

And if you want to get even more high-tech, LoJack has launched a version of its stolen-vehicle-tracking service for motorcycles, too. Get more info at www.lojack.com.

When the first pneumatic tires replaced the metal or wooden wheel edges used during the early years of the motorcycleÂ’s existence, it must have been a revelation. Even those first crude rubber rim covers had to offer a huge advantage over a solid wheel surface. Traction went up markedly. You were literally riding on air. Leaning the machine into a turn became much less exciting. Despite the need for extremely frequent repairs, no one wanted the solid-edged wheel back.

The next half century of motorcycle tire development was spent mostly improving on the basic concept, making tires more secure, increasing longevity, adding strength, and improving traction. Then when motorcycles began to become more specialized, with dirt bikes and street bikes first separating, then each splitting into more specialized sub-types, tire technology followed. Touring bikes got tires capable of carrying heavy loads long distances. Sport bikes got tires created to handle high speeds and provide astounding cornering traction. And cruisers gotÂ….Well, cruisers didnÂ’t get much at first. As in other aspects of cruiser design, technology wasnÂ’t the answer. We didnÂ’t need to deal with tremendous speeds or frame-bending loads, and most cruisers didnÂ’t demand traction for heavy acceleration or braking. Cruiser owners havenÂ’t even fully embraced basic safety technology such as tubeless tires. So cruiser tires tended to be plain, low-tech tires with modest traction. But there has been interest in tire appearance. A few bikes used whitewalls and some got raised white lettering, but tire manufacturers and motorcycle makers have been slow to recognize that, as with other components, appearance is quite important to many buyers, even on the tires.

And why not? From almost any viewing angle, tires are a major part of what you see when you look at a motorcycle. Even on a retro-style cruiser with deep, wrap-around fenders, they are a significant visual component. Yet little has been done to use them to enhance the appearance of a motorcycle. A few tire designers have considered the visuals of their tread patterns, though most buyers seem to be more interested in traction, especially in the wet, than style from the tread design. At the moment, tire buyers can customize a cruiserÂ’s appearance with whitewalls of varying widths. Dunlop added some detail to the sidewall with greater detail and texture on its CruiseMax series. And other tire manufacturers have sought to complement the muscular look of some cruisers with ultra wide rear tires, many of which require substantial motorcycle modifications to or replacement of the wheel, swingarm, frame and other components before they can be squeezed into the chassis.

This Guide looks at the small but growing selection of cruiser-oriented tires that make appearance a primary selling point. There are other tires built and marketed for cruisers, but the one is this guide make real visual statements. However, we hope that this is just a beginning. There are areas that have not been tapped at all. We have heard cruiser owners ask when they will be able to buy tires with color highlights on their sidewalls and others want to see the entire tire colored (as is beginning to be done with motocross tires). Tire builders are a pretty conservative lot, where engineering, safety and traction are the big issues. But as the cruiser population grows and manufacturers search for a sales edge, somebody will step out of the box and play the color card. We can hardly wait. Styling Rubber

AVON

(800)624-7470
http://www.coopertire.com/avon_motorcycle/frames.htm

AM21: This tire, the original ultra-fat rear tire, literally inspired customizers to build motorcycles around it, since no existing frame would fit its massive 234mm width. Combined with its squat 60 profile it suggests an abundance of power that can be controlled only with maximum traction. Whether youÂ’re actually packing that power doesnÂ’t really matter, the visual message is unmistakable. And you can always use that big footprint for hard braking. Though getting it to steer in concert with a relatively skinny front tire will doubtlessly be challenging, it does have a motorcycle profile, and Avon claims good stability and ride comfort. At press time we saw close-out prices as low as $185, though the norm was about $245. Tire cost will be the least of your concern if you decide to shoehorn one of these into your bike. The 230/60H15 tire requires at least a 6.25-inch rim width, but 8.0 inches is recommended. However, it also makes AM23 sizes for riders whose eyes are bigger than their swingarms, for rim widths from 6.25 down to 3.5 inches.

Venom R250: In the fast-moving world of custom bikes, a mere 234mm is no longer enough to turn heads hard enough to cause whiplash, so Avon had to go even fatter. The 252mm (9.9-inch) wide Venom 250 upped the ante and is now the widest motorcycle rubber on the road. However, the 250/40R18 needs a rim thatÂ’s at least 8.5 inches wide with a 9.0-incher preferred. DonÂ’t count on slipping one on your stock Vulcan. The Venom 250 is also H-rated.

Venom X Whitewalls: Avon also offers both narrow- and wide-whitewall version of its H-rated Venom X. An unusual model is a 21-inch front whitewall, along with 19- and 18-inch front sizes and 16-inch rear. (There is also a 15-inch rear size, but not with whitewall.) Prices of the whitewalls, which are about $20 more than the blackwalls run from close to $100 to about$140, depending on size.

DUNLOP

(716)639-5200
www.dunlopmotorcycle.com

Cruisemax: Though Dunlop originally seemed to have more variations in store for this tire, it is currently comes in just two basic versions--a wide whitewall in three sizes and a black version. Both have nicely detailed and textured sidewalls with all the legalese minimized. Front tires are available in 16-inch (the 130/90 is available in both whitewall and black), 18-inch, 19-inch and 21-inch. Rear applications are available in 15- and 16-inch diameters, with two whitewall 15-inchers. The Cruisemax series was designed to offer an all-around improvement in performance, ride and mileage compared to original-equipment (OE) tires as well attracting visual notice. Street prices seem to range from close to $80 to $120 or so, depending on size, style and source, with wide whites adding a bit under $10.

MAXXIS

(800) 4.MAXXIS
(770) 962-8229
www.maxxis.com/motorcycle/main.asp

Maxxis Classic: Maxxis offers its Classic wide whitewall in 10 sizes. There are four fronts—a 19-inchers, an 18-incher and two 16-inchers. The rears are available in two 15-inch versions and four 16-inch widths. All are H-rated and can be run tubeless. We found prices from the low 80s up over $120, depending on size. One site actually listed the whitewall for $3.00 lessff than the same size in blackwall.

A leather motorcycle jacket makes a statement about style, and it can make or break your look. More importantly, it can mean the difference between an enjoyable ride and an uncomfortable one. Don't skimp when it comes to protection and comfort. If you take time to sift through the mass of fashionable duds ( and 80 percent of leather jackets on the market are duds) you can find one that does it all.

Since a little extra hide goes a long way to saving yours, the leather used in any decent motorcycle jacket should be at least one millimeter thick. It will also be more comfortable and durable in the long run.

It's unfortunate that more classically styled motorcycle jackets don't feature protective armor. And when you do find it, it's normally in the shoulders and elbows. That is fine, but protecting your chest and back --where the real life-threatening injuries happen -- is even better. Simple foam padding won't do much for you, so look for armor that's semi-rigid and doesn't shift around when you move.

Want ptotection from rain too? Although other considerations may make waterproof leather jackets come up a bit short in a real gully-washer, ou can now get waterproof leather. BMW and Harley both sell it.
This is a traditional American style leather jacket, but other styles are more functional. The addition of armor would significantly increase protection -- and can even give you a more manly profile.

Do you want a waist-length model or a three-quarter-length design? If you're carrying a gut, a longer style is going to be more comfortable. Also, the longer styles are often more feature intensive -- you'll find usable pocket space, better weather protection (notably in back) and adjustability. The shorties are considered weekend jackets, while the longer designs are intended for hard-core travel.

All motorcycle-specific waist-length jackets should feature a slightly dropped back so if you lean forward wind doesn't creep in. If comfort is a priority, look at three-quarter-length jackets as opposed to the more stylish shorties.

Articulated sleeves or ones that are precurved to mimic a riding position are a nicety found on sophisticated motorcycle jackets. A function-oriented jacket will also have sleeves that are long enough to amply cover your wrists when your arms are stretched forward. Look for sleeves that are tapered and don't buffet in the wind. Cuffs should feature zippers for a tailored fit and a secondary snap or hook-and-loop cinch is an added plus (you don't want your sleeves to ride up if you come off the bike). However, you don't want the closures to be too tight when zipped shut -- they shouldn't hinder wrist movement or cut off circulation. And you should have room for any layers you might want to add on chilly days. Bring a sweatshirt and electric vest along when you are trying on jackets.

We like collars with adjustable flap-style closures as opposed to short, snap-closed mandarin-style necklines, which can feel too tight or push on your throat when you're riding at speed. A neck closure system should feel comfortable even when you pull on the back of the collar.

A removable lining is a definite plus. Liners that incorporate Thinsulate, Thermolite or comparable insulation will offer the most versatility. Venting should be required on any motorcycle jacket (unless it's perforated). For cruiser riding, zippered intake vents on the upper chest, or high on the bicep areas work best. Exhaust vents on the back are necessary for proper airflow.

Finally, even though "black" and "leather jacket" may seem inseparable, there are leather jackets in all colors of the spectrum. Friedman has an orange Alpinestars jacket that, in combination with his orange helmet, makes any "UI didn't see him excuse offered by an arrant driver an obvious lie. If you don't want to fall in fashion step with the herd, you can find plent of good looking leather in almost any color that appeals to you or matches your ride or gear.

There used to be only two choices in protective motorcycle jackets -- leather or textile. And if you wanted a full-coverage jackett that didn't stick to your skin while motorcycling in the sweltering summer heat, you were pretty much out of luck. Even perforated a leather jacket is hot and heavy unless you're speeding along on your motorcycle.

That was back in the 20th century, though -- before the advent of the mesh motorcycle jacket. The concept is simple -- thicker fibers on the exterior fabric utilize a more open weave so that air flows directly onto the rider.

Ventilation is an attractive idea, but there's the perception that these lightweight jackets protect you like normal street jackets. That's usually not the case, however, so we were careful to select examples featuring armor for this guide.

These examples range in complexity from a few threads with Styrofoam to ballistic nylon with hard armor. We took each for a whirl through the California countryside to see which offered the best convection, and which were so much fancy fish netting. There are many options and variations here, but we did find a favorite.

These jackets are apparently quite popular, and after riding in them summer, we can see why. They do offer cooling of the sort that even well vented jackets can not. Other companies are jumping into the flow-through field to meet the demand. As this article was being sent to press, we received an Alpinestars T-Venom mesh jacket ($220), which features a heavy mesh and polyester outer housing hard CE-certified protectors in the shoulder and elbow areas, with an extra layer of padding to reinforce impact zones. A foam backpad offers posterior protection, and a removable wind-resistant liner provides warmth for when the sun goes down. The jacket sports a tailored fit with a zip front and snap closures at the waist, collar and cuffs. It comes in menÂ’s sizes XS to XXXL, in black/gray, black/red and black/blue; matching Air-Flo pants are available for $140, in black only.

AGV SPORT AEROMESH JACKET
$139 (lightweight)

AGV dives into the mesh wars with its lightweight AeroMesh, featuring polyester mesh textile on the outside with removable CE-approved armor units embedded in the shoulders, elbows and back. A layer of high-density exterior padding on the shoulder, elbow and back impact zones adds extra protection. The AeroMesh sacrifices the comfort of a softer interior liner for an open-weave netting that is rougher to the touch but allows more direct airflow; a waterproof zip-out liner comes standard, but unfortunately it isn't breathable. Two compression straps per arm let you tailor the fit, although the snap closures limit adjustability. The cuffs also feature rubber-coated snap closures, and a steel zipper snugs up the middle (though not as smoothly as we'd like). A waistband with straps on each side adjusts easily, and two exterior zip pockets provide storage, with an inner pouch for small items. Reflective labels galore offer conspicuity, and a connecting zip inside allows the attachment of pants.

The AeroMesh comes in men's sizes S through XXL, in two-tone yellow/black, red/black, black/black and black/blue. Matching Aeromesh pants are available separately in black only.

What we liked: CE armor/external padding combination; lightweight; good airflow.
What we didn't: zipper connection; snap closures; neck not padded.

FIELDSHEER MACH 1 JACKET
$120 (middleweight)

Fieldsheer's Mach 1 jacket may be low in price, but it has a wealth of attractive features. The Mach 1 is fairly lightweight, thanks in part to a thin polyester mesh outer material (which initially made us slightly nervous). The mesh ushers in cooling breezes effectively while the jacket's removable CE armor in the elbows, shoulders and back (with additional foam sandwiched between armor and shell) eases vulnerability concerns.

A soft mandarin collar padded with fleece and neoprene keeps rashes at bay and closes with a rubberized tab. A single "volume" adjuster on each arm tailors fit and the waist adjusts with two hook-and-loop side straps. Gusseted wrist cuffs also secure with hook-and-loop (although we'd like zips too), and two exterior slash pockets and a single pouch inside give you space to stash your goodies. A soft poly-mesh inner liner feels comfy if you're going commando, and a zip-out, insulated liner serves as backup for chillier moments.

The Mach 1 can be had in black/gun/silver, blue/white, yellow/gun, red/white, green/gun or all black, in men's sizes XS to XXXL and ladies' sizes XS–XXXL. Matching Titanium Air pants can be had for $99.

What we liked: Good value; well-padded lower back; stout armor; neck comfort; airflow.
What we didn't: Minimal reflectivity; hook-and-loop-only cuff closures.

FIRSTGEAR MESHTEX JACKET
$140 (lightweight)

Intersport Fashion West's MeshTex entry is perfect for those long summer nights when you're out cruising the boulevard and don't want to stew in your own juice. It has a tighter weave both in the outer shell and the liner for a softer feel, and since the MeshTex is substantially light, it has the weight of a shirt-jacket when worn. The mesh nylon shell allows breezes in more subtly than the more open-weaved jackets, but you certainly feel the airflow. Perforated EVA shoulder and elbow armor resides under the shell, with a foam pad shoring up your back. All armor is removable, but it's so lightweight and unobtrusive we can't imagine why you'd want to do so. Adjustable sleeve cuffs (hook-and-loop, but gusseted) and hook-and-loop waist tabs ensure a comfortable fit, while a soft, perforated nylon lining gives you airflow with comfort. Two zippered pockets reside above the waist and an inside wallet pocket provides additional storage.

The MeshTex jacket comes in sizes for everyone; men's sizes run from S all the way to XXXXL, plus men's tall LT through XXLT, and women's S to XXL in gray/black, red/black and blue/black. Matching pants are available for $140.

What we liked: Clean styling; comfort; padded neck.
What we didn't: lightness of armor; no compression straps.

JOE ROCKET PHOENIX 2.0 JACKET
$140 (lightweight)

Since it started the trend a few years ago, Joe Rocket's Phoenix mesh jacket has become a top seller, and the next-generation Phoenix 2.0 continues that tradition. It's a very lightweight, handsome jacket with a stylish two-tone color scheme and rubberized, reflective logo patches. Outer material is a polyester mesh shell covering removable dual density armor (there's separate internal and external padding) in the shoulders, elbows and back. Because of the double armor and thin mesh, you feel more padding than jacket, but we would have liked extra nylon reinforcements on the shell's impact zones, too. A drop-down lower back section is nicely padded, however.

The Phoenix's inner liner has a large weave for direct airflow -- it's effective for cooling, but slightly rough as a lining. A heavy-duty zipper closes up the middle, an inner zipper accommodates an optional vest or liner (sold separately) and an additional eight-inch zipper allows for pant connection. Cuffs utilize a hook-and-loop closure, and two compression straps per arm secure with snaps (which isn't always a perfect fit). The low collar is unpadded, and two outside zip pockets and an inner pouch hold your cargo. An adjustable waistband cinches with two hook-and-loop straps.

The Phoenix comes in all the colors of the rainbow; black/black, blue/black, green/black, red/black, grey/black and yellow/black, in men's sizes XS up to XXXL. Matching mesh pants are available in black only for $140.

What we liked: Stylish; good reflectivity; external padding.
What we didn't: Non-CE armor is lightweight and shifts easily, unpadded neck, no liner.

OLYMPIA SPORTS AIRGLIDE MESH TECH JACKET
$199 (middleweight)

As we were going to press, we heard of a new company making mesh garments. Luckily we were able to sample the brand-new Airglide Mesh Tech Jacket from Olympia Moto Sports -- a garment with all the requisite features and then some.

Like the Vanson and Triumph jackets, the Airglide is more of a middleweight, weighing in with solid 500-denier Cordura nylon panels strategically placed amid medium-weave mesh fibers. A cool mesh lining provides interior comfort and two waist tabs adjust fit with hook-and-loop fasteners. The neoprene neck insert keeps you chafe-free, and a front collar tab closes with hook-and-loop fasteners, as does the single sleeve adjuster on each arm. Two zippered chest and torso pockets provide gobs of storage, and an interior zip pocket takes care of smaller concerns (though we felt the front jacket zip was a bit rough). An eight-inch connecting zipper for pants is sewn into the liner.

The removable CE-approved, injection-molded armor in the elbows and shoulders feels stout, and an articulated back protector brings up the rear (though we wish it were deeper). Reflective, colored piping and trim along the chest, arms and back provide unique nighttime conspicuity, and the Airglide's zip-out military-style insulated liner scores points for style and versatility. The jacket comes in yellow/black, grey/black, blue/black and red/black in men's sizes S through XXL.

What we liked: Groovy two-in-one liner (can be worn alone); lotsa storage; tough armor.
What we didn't: Rough external zipper connections; lightweight outer mesh.

REX MARSEE FULL FLOW MESH JACKET
$ 160 (middleweight)

The Full Flow jacket got to us just before press time, so we didn't get a chance to wear it a lot -- although it made a tasty impression on us the short time we did.

The Full Flow features durable medium-weave mesh on the outside, bolstered by heavy-duty 1050-denier Cordura in the high-impact and high-wear areas -- the shoulder, elbows and waist.

That same Cordura is impregnated with reflective dots, giving the shell a shimmery sheen for great conspicuity after dark -- we felt like spacemen. CE-approved, removable body armor secured in the liner pockets (in the shoulder, elbow and spinal area) feels substantial, with a lower back/tailbone pad for extra protection. The compression straps (two per arm) can easily be tightened to reduce wind flap, and the cuffs boast combination zipper-and-velcro closures for a true fit. You have a choice of four pockets -- three on the outside, one inside, and a soft perforated mesh lining.

The Full Flow jacket comes in men's sizes XS to XXXL; call for colors. Optional Full Flow pants are available for $145.

What we liked: Reinforced impact zones; CE armor; tailbone protection; closures; airflow.
What we didn't: Unpadded collar; lightweight mesh; no zip-out liner.

TEKNIC SUPERVENT JACKET
$130 (lightweight)

Teknic's new Supervent jacket sports narrow-gauge nylon, a reinforced mesh outer shell and a soft, perforated mesh lining fitted with CE-approved Teknic/Knox armor in the shoulders, elbows and back, bolstered with heavy-duty 500-denier patches in high-impact areas. Two compression straps per arm are cinched down with snaps, and the arms are precurved for comfort -- but you never feel any material thick enough to rub you the wrong way in this lightweight jacket. Two waist straps on the side connect to a padded kidney pad and adjust the jacket to your body. The collar and cuffs have stretchy neoprene inserts for better comfort (though no padding), and the cuffs have a secure zip closure for a snug fit. The Supervent zips down the middle and carries two outer zip pockets and an inner wallet pouch. A single reflective stripe runs across the upper back. While the jacket is comfortable and the armor sufficiently stout, its light weight (like the MeshTex) felt more like a heavy shirt.

The Supervent comes in U.S. men's sizes 40–56 (roughly M to XXL) in black, black/red, black/blue and black/yellow. Teknic also offers matching Supervent gloves and pants.

What we liked: Strong Knox armor; extra fabric reinforcement; clean design What we didn't: Lightweight feel and outer material; few reflective surfaces

TOUR MASTER CORTECH GS AIR JACKET
$180 (light-middleweight)

Tour Master's excellent Cortech line of riding apparel gains a stablemate with the new GX Air jacket and pants, styled specifically for warm-weather riding.

This mesh jacket felt like an old shirt the minute we put it on -- which wasn't appealing, initially. The jacket's shell construction utilizes a narrow-gauge abrasion-resistant mesh, which provided excellent ventilation, but felt somewhat flimsy. However, we were quickly reassured by the rugged 1680-denier nylon patches swaddling the arms and shoulders. Removable armor in the elbows, shoulders and back, along with padding on the collarbone and lower back also helped quiet our paranoia. The GX Air has precurved sleeves, with a single adjustable forearm strap on each arm and effective zipper-and-hook-and-loop cuff closures to give you a snug fit. The interior is lined with a soft nylon/polyester mesh, with a pant connection zipper inside. An optional, insulated zip-out liner is sold separately.

The elastic-panel waist adjusts with two hook-and-loop belts, and two large storage pockets, an upper back reflective panel and stylish rubber-molded logos round out the details. A simple tab closes over the neck. The Cortech GX Air jacket comes in men's sizes XS–XXXL and women's XS–L, in black/dark silver, red/silver, blue/silver, yellow/silver, silver/dark silver and striking white/silver. Matching GX Air pants are available for $199.

What we liked: Comfortable fit; Cordura reinforcements; excellent finish; cuff closures.
What we didn't: Flimsy feel; lightweight armor; not many reflective surfaces.

TRIUMPH RAPTOR VENTED JACKET
$130 (middleweight)

Triumph's entry in this group seems...well, refined, especially when you consider that most OEM outerwear is a bit chintzy. The bloody Brits have somehow imbued this silly mesh concept with a sense of dignity, and it works. Shimmery, two-tone perforated nylon mesh pairs with solid, heavy-duty Cordura panels to cover removable Knox CE-approved armor in the shoulders and elbows and a heavy foam insert in the back. The sleeves have roper "width adjusters" -- with two snaps per arm, chap. There are four outer storage pockets, with two additional pouches inside the jacket. A soft perforated nylon inner lining provides some comfort, and an elastic waist panel adjusts with a single strap. Very civilized, that. Of course, we're Yanks, so we weren't completely content -- the cuff zippers didn't close tightly enough, and the snaps didn't snug all the extra material at the wrist or neck together. I say, some hook-and-loop would have helped, wot? Reflectivity was also minimal. Airflow, however, was topnotch. Triumph also offers matching Raptor jeans that can be connected to an inner zipper.

The Raptor, alas, comes in two colors only -- black or grey, in men's sizes 38–56 (M–XXXL).

What we liked: CE armor; reinforced shoulders/arms; plenty o' pockets.
What we didn't: Snap closures; unpadded neck; minimal retro-reflectivity

MOTORCYCLE CRUISER PICK:
VANSON VENT JACKET $199 (middleweight)

It may tie for the most expensive jacket in the lot, but you can instantly see why. Vanson Leathers' mesh Vent jacket sports a 1000-denier Cordura nylon panel shell that's doubly reinforced with leather in the shoulder and elbow impact zones. Under that abrasion-resistant combo is Vanson's exclusive armor (it exceeds 2005 CE standards) sequestered in the shoulder and elbow area, along with a long, removable spine protector out back that's covered with additional padding. The heft of the armor is apparent when you pick up the jacket.

In addition, the Vent jacket boasts a free-flowing open-mesh weave; it's lined with soft polyester for comfort and to diffuse the windblasts that come through. Precurved sleeves and a single adjustable forearm strap on each arm offer you a tailored fit, with an adjustable waistband strap on each side to snug material close. A racing-style leather roll collar dips low off your neck, and the wrist cuffs zip closed; two zippered outer and two inner pockets provide plenty of storage. The two reflective shoulder logos, however, don't do much for visibility (there's nothing reflective on the back).

Vanson's Vent jacket is available in black/red, black/blue, black/grey, black/yellow and black/black in men's sizes XS through XXXXL. At presstime, we were told the $199 promotional price would be going up soon. (It is now $249.)

What we liked: superior armor; sturdiness; tough reinforcements; comfortable cut.
What we didn't: collar too low; no included liner; not enough reflectivity.

Ah, the dog days of summer. If you're like most motorcyclists, you ride primarily during the warm months between May and September, when the grass is high and the asphalt clear. It's the best time for frost-free cruising, but it also brings scorching temperatures and uncomfortable humidity, sometime amplified by the heat coming from your own motorcycle. It's not easy to find gear that's breezy and comfortable mid-season, yet still provides proper protection and versatility. Each year, we too wrestle with the perennial dilemma: What to wear to beat the heat while riding a motorcycle?

Against all logic, more is better when it comes to hot-weather riding gear. A recent British survey revealed that on a warm day (65 degrees Fahrenheit) a motorcyclist riding 45 to 55 mph experiences a chilling effect equivalent to 33 degrees. That's only one degree above freezing; especially ill-prepared riders could even suffer hypothermia. But clothes that are right for cold-weather riding are invariably too hot once you stop. In order to roll with the punches, dress in several layers so you can strip down as conditions warrant. However, even on a blistering day, you wil stay cooler with at least one layer over your skin or T-shirt. Covering up retains the moisture that helps your body cool itself, and blunts the dehydrating, fatiguing effects of direct sun and wind.

Modern apparel design has progressed and there are high-tech solutions out there. Joe Rocket's Phoenix jacket started the mesh gear revolution a few years back. These days there are a wide selection of mesh jackets. Mesh construction finally handed riders an acceptably protective yet comfortable solution to those scorching days when all you really wanted to wear was a T-shirt. With this guide, we hope to offer some other solutions to the denim and cotton dilemma, from your head down to your toes.

NOGGIN

# Nolan N100 Classic Plus Helmet: $217
Classics are classics for a reason, and the Nolan N100 flip-face helmet is no exception. This lightweight, helmet has been gracing the heads of touring riders for years, and its quick-release chin-bar system is a favorite of many motorcyclists. Flipping up the facial section at a stop allows you instant access do a qhick swallow of water or similar comforts. A polycarbonate shell keeps the helmet's weight down to around 3.5 pounds, and the durable, optically neutral face shield can be removed and changed without tools. Adjustable vents keep the helmet's shield clear and the wearer's head cool, and a DOT sticker makes it all kosher. Nolan's N100 Classic Plus Helmet is available in black, silver or yellow via Aerostich Riderwearhouse.

# Zub Wear: $15
Dubbed "tubular headwear," this interesting doodad doubles as a skull cap, do-rag or bandanna—and it's breathable. We're told the polyester microfiber absorbs moisture and wicks it to the top, while the Zub's surface acts like a radiator, enhancing and promoting evaporation and helping riders stay dry and cool. Zub Wear (pronounced "zoob") material expands in chillier temps to create a layer of insulation, and the elastic fibers allow a universal fit with shape retention. The Zub is available in a variety of funky designs.

# Gargoyles Legends Sunglasses: $97
Summer usually means searing, blinding sun, so don't skimp on sunglasses in your gear bag. For visual clarity, Gargoyles polycarbonate eyewear is nigh peerless. The polycarbonate lenses have a patented horizontal and vertical curve that allows them to be optically perfect, and spring-hinged temples ensure a comfortable fit. A wraparound design protects your eyes from sun wind, dust and UV rays, which is far more than 90 percent of the cheapo shades do. Available in black through Aerostich Riderwearhouse.

# Demon Films: $12
A great name for a simple, effective product. These easily interchangeable tinted films stick to your face shield through the miracle of static cling, offering you the versatility of sporting a dark, menacingly tinted shield for bright daylight and a clear view for the ride home simply by peeling off the film. Available in intimidating iridium or basic black via Aerostich Riderwearhouse.

PAWS

# REV'IT! Hurricane Hot-Weather Gloves: $60
It gets mighty sweaty in the concrete jungle, but REV'IT!'s Hurricane gloves can cool what ails ya. The mitt is designed to limit bunching and is constructed of synthetic mesh and ventilated soft sheep hide for superior breathability; leather reinforcements on the palm ensure you don't sacrifice abrasion resistance for comfort. A hardshell knuckle ups the protection quotient and adds a cool road-warrior vibe. The short-cuff gloves are available in black, gray or red mesh with black leather in sizes XS-XXXL.

# Marsee Full Flow Summer Gloves: $41
On the other hand, there's the heft of the extra-thick cowhide found on Marsee's Full Flow gloves. The soft leather glove features a moisture-absorbing inner liner and perforation to keep your digits chilled while providing full gauntlet protection. A palm-placed gel pad reduces vibration, and preformed fingers supply a comfy fit. A thumb wiper blade lets you clear your shield. Available in black in sizes XS-XXL.

# Harley-Davidson Fortitude Full Finger Gloves: $50
This classy, thinner leather glove sports tricot lining and a perforated topside for added ventilation as well as classic good looks for that warm weekend ride. Perforated forchettes (those little forked pieces of material between adjacent fingers) and precurved fingers enhance flexibility and offer additional cooling. A Harley medallion shows off your pedigree. Available in black in men's sizes S-XXXL and women's sizes XS-XL.

TORSO

# UPF Outdoor Shirt: $47
Supplex nylon makes this shirt ideal for any hot-weather travel, two-wheeled or not. The long-sleeved, lightweight garment packs up small, and yes, there's a standard collar and two chest pockets, but there are also underarm vents to keep you cool and a zippered security pocket to hide valuables. It feels like cotton, but this shirt wicks moisture and provides protection from UV light with a UPF of 30. Available in tan in sizes S-XL via Aerostich Riderwearhouse.

# REV'IT! Kubix Jacket $300
Now those zany Dutch have combined leather style with the function of textile in a garment designed to limit bunching and maximize aerodynamics. The Kubix combines Italian leather and 500-denier stretch Cordura for durability, abrasion resistance and comfort. Removable Knox CE hard armor protects your shoulders, elbows and forearms, and waistband straps offer adjustability. Zip out the insulated liner to reveal perforated chest panels for extra ventilation. A back protector, zipper attachments and five pockets round out the list of trick features. The Kubix comes in black with gunmetal trim in sizes XXS-XXXL.

# Kushitani Perforated K1 Jacket: $750
This black beauty feels right the minute you slip it on, living up to Kushitani's reputation for premium quality leather motorcycle apparel. Beautiful top-grade leather and a flattering, seamless fit are Kushitani trademarks, and the K1 Jacket delivers. The sleek Perforated K1 Jacket features Punch Mesh construction (perforated leather) in the body sections and rib areas and K-Foam protection in high-impact areas for terrific breathability, comfort and solid protection. The Kushitani Perforated K1 Jacket is available in black (it's also available in nonperforated versions) in men's sizes M-XXL and ladies' sizes M-L.

# Joe Rocket Sahara Cooling Vest: $80
You can wear Joe Rocket's Sahara nylon vest separately, but we (and the manufacturer) recommend tucking the cooling vest under any perforated or mesh jacket to take advantage of its evaporative cooling system. It also zips into many of the Joe Rocket jacket line, including the Phoenix, Reactor, Cleo, Super Ego, Rio and Santa Fe jackets. The Sahara vest uses polymers that purportedly absorb the rider's body heat and release it through the outer surface into the passing air. The Joe Rocket Sahara Cooling Vest is available in gray or in the yellow color shown here in men's sizes S-XXXL.

BOTTOM

# Fast Wicking Underwear: $14
They're cooler and drier than cotton underwear, so why don't you have a pair yet? Fast-wicking Dri-Gear underwear is designed for comfort and microclimatic efficiency, and it is a perfect first layer. The Skinetics fabric is an advanced knit that moves moisture away from your skin, with the fastest drying time of any fabric. Durable and comfortable flat seams are shaped to eliminate bunching and wrinkling. Available in boxer or brief styles via Aerostich Riderwearhouse in black or gray in men's sizes S-XL.

# Hein Gericke Mesh Cargo Overpants: $200
Hein Gericke's new Mesh Cargo Overpants may look like the height of motorcycling fashion, but on your motorcycle they're much more than that—they are practical, comfortable and protective, too. The Mesh Cargo Overpants' abrasion-resistant poly-mesh construction boasts CE-approved armor (armor that meets the European Union's standards for motorcycle armor impact protection) at the knees, and their full-length leg zippers makes it easy to get into your pants. Two large cargo-type pockets on the front of the thigh areas and a rear pocket permit the wearer to stash plenty of small items for easy access, even on the bike. The waterproof Sheltex inner liner may be removed for full-force air cooling or popped in when a summer thunderstorm threatens. The Mesh Cargo Overpants are available in your choice of black through Fairchild Sports (formerly Intersport Fashions West) or most motorcycle dealers and accessory stores.

# Set Up Pegaso Boots: $160
Match your newly air-conditioned extremities with a set of synthetic leather Set Up Pegaso boots, featuring breathable vent panels. Pegasos have an extra leather layer in the toe area and double stitching at the stress points, so you won't give up safety for a soothing breeze. The lining is a fully vented cotton/poly blend, and a softer, pleated material in the Achilles area increases flexibility. Additional protection comes from an internal nylon ankle shield and an injection-molded thermoplastic heel cup. Get them in black in sizes 6-13 from Motonation.

# Marsee Full Flow Mesh Pants: $153
Yes, "Ballistics" is a noun—it's the name applied to abrasion-resistant nylon that's far tougher than regular Cordura. The material in the Marsee Full Flow Mesh Pants provides abrasion strength comparable to leather, and Marsee places 1050-denier Ballistics around the waist, knees and seat of its Full Flow Mesh motorcycle pants. The heavy-gauge mesh provide crash-grade strength and durability while still allowing air to flow through to cool the wearer, and stout CE armor (that is, armor that meets the European impact absorption standard) at the knees and shins provides impact protection, too. Get your Marsee Full Flow Mesh Pants in black in waist sizes 28-42.

# Draggin' Jeans: $80
For those days when you absolutely, positively have to wrap yourself in denim but still want to ride, at least slip your vulnerable legs into the tough stuff. Draggin' Jeans feel, wear, and are cut like traditional dungarees, but they feature 100-percent Kevlar reinforcements in the critical knee and hinie sections—the areas that are most likely to end up in contact with the asphalt in a crash. You can wear Draggin' Jeans every day (the thread lines for the Kevlar patches can be interprettted as a fashion element) and still be ready to hop on your motorcycle at a moment's notice. These jeans are not padded, so they won't protect you like the pants mentioned above from the impacts you will inevitably incur in a motorcycle crash, but Draggin' Jeans are still capable of minimizing the pavement rash that afficts the victims of even low-speed urban crash disasters. The Draggin' Jeans' stonewash finish is available in inseam sizes 30-38; see the Aerostich Riderwearhouse website (linked below) for sizing and other pertinent details.

# Light Weight Ultimax Socks: $7-$8
There's nothing worse than a pair of sweaty socks on a summer ride, but what's a biker to do? Well, he can minimize foot moisture and fatigue with a pair of cushioned Olefin/Nylon/Spandex Ultimax socks. These year-round tubes feature an ultra-smooth toe enclosure and a filet-stitched instep. Impressive. And if worse comes to worst, you can always wash 'em in the sink at night—they'll be dry by morning. Available in light weight (black or white) and medium weight (gray) in M, L or XL via Aerostich Riderwearhouse.

ODDS & ENDS

# Aerostich Sheepskin Saddle Pads: $67
When it's sticky hot, you'll sit cooler with sheepskin because the woolly stuff allows a layer of air to circulate between the saddle and your butt. These luxurious pads are laminated with a non-skid mesh base so they won't creep around, and they'll work on everything from dirtbikes to luxury baggers. The pads come with eight bungee attachment points, two lengths of adjustable bungee, and four nylon hooks to customize fit. Available in Rectangle (11 x 14.5 inches) and Tapered (13 x 18 inches) sizes.

# Frogg Toggs Chilly Pad: $20
Wet cotton towels? That's so 1990. The latest innovation for cooling your jets is hyper-evaporative material, the kind found in the Frogg Toggs Chilly Pad. This unique synthetic patented fabric pad retains water for a cooling effect that lasts anywhere from one to four hours while remaining dry to the touch. Simply wet the fabric, wring out excess water and in less than 5 minutes, the pad will be as much as 25 degrees cooler than the outside air temperature, depending on conditions. Simply re-wet the Pad to reactivate it. (You also need to understand that when the product is fully dry, it feels like petrified bark.) Just drape it around your neck beneath the collar of your jacket to get some serious cooling. The blue towel is machine washable and measures 33 x 13 inches. Order through the Frogg Toggs website (link below in the Resources section).

# Aerostich Cool Mate Pump: $20
Aerostich has packaged a real cool solution to hot rides into this neat pump device. Equipped with an O-ring seal and an insulated jacket, the Cool Mate can be pumped up to approximately 80 psi with 15 to 20 strokes. The system finely atomizes water, allowing you to spray yourself with it and bask in the cooling effect. Featuring a 36-inch hose and a high-quality brass nozzle operated by a clip-type flow control, the Cool Mate Pump makes a perfect addition to your hot-weather riding kit. It has the advantage of being useful in non-motorcycling situations or while you have stopped for gas on a sweltering day.

Because your choice of riding gear is as important to making motorcycling fun as your choice of motorcycle, Motorcycle Cruiser magazine includes regular articles about riding apparel. The right gear makes motorcycling safer and more comfortable through a wide range of conditions. Yet apparel-buying decision may be based on little more than what the wearer sees while standing in front a mirror. Consider a riding jacket. Most riders buy on style, but a real riding jacket should do much more than look good. With a bit of augmentation (layering), it should actually increase your comfort throughout the range of temperatures you ride in, serve your needs on the road, prevent damage to your machine, ward of gravel and bugs, and on that day when something goes wrong, provide significant protection from abrasion and even impact. That's the difference between a motorcycle jacket, and good-looking but functionally empty jacket.

Be Cool

You can actually be cooler in a solid crash-resistant motorcycle jacket than in a T-shirt in hot weather, but the jacket must have good venting in places where the moving air touches it. If you ride behind a large windshield, that means that it must have vents out on the sleeves, perhaps even on the outside of the sleeves. I have a Firstgear jacket, for example, with a unique scoop on the outside of the forearms to catch air flowing around the shield. If you don't have a windshield, then large vents in the upper chest, such as the tuck-away panels on some Vanson jackets, are a cool solution. What goes in must come out, so the jacket should have exit venting on the back too. If you are buying a jacket just for warm weather one of the mesh motorcycle jackets can actually keep you cooler while moving than riding in just a shirt.

Those vents can be a liability on cold rides, so if you plan to use a mesh or vented jacket in a wider range of temperatures, there should be some means of sealing them. An insulating liner increases a jacket's cold-weather utility. A longer jacket, especially one with some sort or belt or elastic waist, will reduce the drafts that can blow up your back and chill your kidneys.

Various other design features can expand a jacket's temperature range. If the front closure features a snap-down flap over the zipper, you might be able to get air flowing through by unzipping the jacket most of the way but using the snaps to keep yourself fully covered. Sleeves that close with a zipper plus a snap can provide a similar option to keep the closure intact but let some air flow through.

The Fine Points

Massive zippers, fancy snaps or big chrome buckles may look cool, but they can also scratch your bike's paint, especially on the tank. Sleeve zippers and snaps will also come into contact with your bike more frequently than you might suppose. However, don't abandon these kinds of closures in favor of a knit cuff. The problem with knit-style cuffs, often found on aviator-style jackets, is that they permit the sleeve to ride up your arm if you are sliding on it in a crash. The sleeve should close snugly enough that it can not pull up and expose your forearm. You probably want some adjustability in the cuff area though to accommodate additional layers of clothing, watches or gloves. A closure using hook-and-loop material (such as Velcro) can provide great flexibility. Our preference is for a system that uses hook-and-loop material or snaps to adjust the size combined with a zipper (independent of the adjusting system) for closure. The the least convenient cuff systems are those where you must zip and adjust each time you put the jacket on. This is also true of waist adjustments. The adjustments help you accommodate varying layers beneath, but I'd rather just zip the jacket and not have to mess with the belt each time I put it on.

Jacket length is also an issue. Short jackets tend to be the most popular from a styling standpoint, but I have noticed that few experienced riders use them as their primary jacket. Short jackets have a tendency to pull up in a slide, leaving you exposed between the bottom of the jacket and the top of your pants. I prefer a jacket that reaches my hips, since it is less likely to ride up that far in a slide. It also keeps breezes from blowing up my back on colder rides.

Remember that anything you want to reach while riding must be accessible to your left hand, so change pockets for tolls, map pockets, etc. should be on the right side. Zipper pulls should be large enough to grip with heavy gloves. If you are planning on mating the jacket to pants, it's nice if it comes with a zipper for that purpose, though that can be sewed in later. One feature I find indispensable when I'm not using the jacket is a hanging loop.

Motorcycle jackets offer a wide variety of collar styles, including some that zip off. I prefer a tall collar that I can leave open when the weather is warm or closed snugly to fend off cold or bugs. If the collar uses a tab-type closure that fastens with hook-and-loop fastener, the hook portion should be on the tab with a loop patch that allows you to fold the tab inside the jacket when it's not in use. This will prevent the hook section from snagging your helmet strap.

Wear Protection
This rider probably felt he was riding safely and didn't really need protective gear or a helmet on such a warm day. He wasn't counting on drivers who run redlights. About the time the traffic camera snapped this photo, he may have wished he'd dressed for excess.

Soft, supple fashion leather may look good in the showroom, but it provides no real abrasion protection, a fact that will become painfully obvious when you are sliding along the asphalt at 50 mph. It also marks the wearer as a pretender, not a real motorcyclist. That heavy, motorcycle-weight leather may not hug your curves like the paper-thin stuff, but it will break in and become quite comfortable in a few rides. Though you will pay more, riding leather will also last far longer than the fashion-weight stuff.

Armor may seem, well...unseemly, until you need it, then it might prevent broken bones or perhaps even internal injuries. Apparel with armor might look and feel lumpy when you first wear it; although the looks won't change much, we have learned that most armor molds and moves to fit the body it's wrapped around. Though meaningful research is just beginning on what sort of body armor is most effective, it stands to reason that the kind of armor built like a helmet, with an outer shell to spread out the impact load and a layer of slowly resilient foam, is the best bet. However, almost any sort of padding is likely to improve on the impact-absorbing capabilities of leather or cordura.

Leather isn't the only suitable material for motorcycling. Aerostich pioneered protective riding gear made from synthetic materials, and other firms have followed. The Aerostich suit also serves as an example of easy entry, useful features, custom construction, and accessible repair facilities, all points worth considering. The Aerostich suit uses a coated material that can keep you dry in a brief rainstorm, though the coating also blocks air movement. A similar suit from Motoport is not coated, making it significantly cooler in hot weather. To get rain protection, you'll need the firm's liner or a rainsuit worn over it.

Getting into Your Pants

Jeans, especially heavy ones, do offer some protection in a crash. They are substantially better than light slacks and a wolrd ahead of shorts. They may also offer a good level of comfort, protecting your legs from wind and sun and allowing some air to flow over your skin. The only way you are going to get better wind flow with protection is by wearing mesh pants over shorts.

If you are buying pants for protecting your lower region, consider the points above about heavy leather and the need for cuff closures that won't ride up. I am amazed at how often I see people riding in chaps or pants made from fashion-weight leather in hot weather. You get all the lack of cooling with almost none of the protection of serious leather. Chaps that leave your glutes uncovered also make me scratch my head, since most falls leave you with third-degree monkey butt. Instead of chaps, look for overpants with full-length zippers, which make them at least as easy to put on as chaps and provide significantly more protection than open-butt chaps.

Decide how you expect to wear the pants before you go shopping. Will they be worn full-time on the days you ride, and have only underwear beneath? Will you put them on and take them off during the day and wear them over jeans? If so, what will, you have in your jeans pockets? Take the pocket contents along when trying on overpants. Will you be able to reach things in your pockets? If not, where will you put wallet, keys, etc.? Make sure the pants are easy to get on and off if they are to donned and doffed at roadside and that they will roll up into some storable form to strap to or tuck away on your bike. Armor will make this harder, but leaving it out will make falls harder.

Full Coverage

Of course, the best protection comes from a one-piece riding suit. The epitome of street protection and motorcycling functionality is the one-piece Aerostich suit. It is made from heavy materials that provide perotection from the elements and in a crash. Armor panels provide some protection from impacts. There are plenty of reports of people who have crashed at speeds over 100 mph and come to rest with their bodies and Aerostich suits intact. A one-piece Aerostich is almost as easy to don as a jacket—just step into one leg, zip up the mail zipper and the other leg. Its only shortcoming is its limited temperature range, since it doesn't vent too well and requires layers to keep you warm. There are one-piece suits from other btrangs that also provide excellent protection, and Aerostich and others other two-piece suits.

Buying Boots

Unless you are buying boots with some armor over the anklebones, you probably aren't getting any special protection with motorcycle-specific boots. However, one of the many waterproof boots can extend your comfort in the rain, and a motorcycle boot's sole design can improve your riding experience in other ways. Most of all, the sole should provide good traction when you plant it in oil or sand at a stop, to prevent you from tipping over. This is a big problem with cowboy boots on motorcycles; with their smooth soles, they desert you when you need traction on a slick surface. A deep rubber sole can also absorb some vibration. Some motorcycle boots now offer venting, which you might also get with a lace-up style boot.

It can pay to have your motorcycle available while shopping for boots. That's because the boot should work with your foot controls. Boots with a vertical face on the fronts of their heel blocks can limit your options in terms of foot position on footpegs. A ramped heel block may allow you to reach the brake and shift levers more easily. Short-legged riders may find that boots with thick soles (not tall heels) can help them to plant their feet more securely at a stop. (Some also have thicker soles added.)

There is some research that indicates that heavier boots, by increasing the pendulum effect of the foot on your leg, may increase the likelihood of leg fractures in an accident.

I have flat feet, and finding boots that are comfortable to walk in can be a challenge, but they are out there with the other features I want -- easy entry combined with secure fit so they don't fling off in a crash, waterproofing, enough flexibilty to shift and brake, and not too much bulk.

Velvet Fist in the Iron Glove

After a helmet, a solid pair of gloves is the most important protection you can wear while riding. I have heard too many tales of riders who have ground all or part of a finger or thumb off in a crash. A solid glove can at least slow this down.

The best way to have a glove for every situation is to have several sets of gloves. I think the minimum for a serious rider is three sets—a light vented pair for summer, a middleweight pair for in-between weather and a heavy insulated pair for cold rides. I have a box of gloves in the closet, perhaps 20 pairs, and almost every set get used at some point during the year.
Functional motorcycle gear can be fashionable, but it's harder to make fashion work on a motorcycle.

Features all motorcycling gloves should have in common are substantial materials, rugged construction, a solid retention system and comfort. For lighter gloves, deerskin or goatskin is a supple and comfortable yet tough material that resists abrasion. Look for seams sewn with tough thread material (turning the gloves inside out may make this easier to examine) and a retention system that holds the glove firmly in place once it's tightened (so that it is not flung off in a crash). If a glove is initially stiff, it will probably soften up and conform to your hand with wear. Gloves that bunch up in the palms will soon become a problem when wrapped around a handlebar. Gloves that are pre-curved—that is, shaped as if ithey were beginning to grab the grip—are less likely to build up in the palm.

My preference for summer gloves is a perforated solid-leather (deerskin or whatever) type. The part-fabric types don't seem strong enough to stay together reliably in a crash. These days you can also find gloves with armor and wind-catching vents from several makers. Fingerless gloves are little better than no gloves at all. If you have seen the remains of hands of people who have endured crashes in fingerless gloves or just the sun- and windburn on riders who have used them on long rides, you'll leave them in your weight room. They have no place on motorcycles.

Some middleweight gloves are waterproof, which is a worthwhile feature. As with heavier winter gloves, the extra material shouldn't make the gloves too stiff or bulk up the palm areas.

Added Warmth

If you want the ultimate in warmth for your hands, consider electric gloves. However, don't buy the gloves until you have the electric vest. All the brands of electric vests that we have tried make a huge dent in cold weather, and by warning your vital organs, they also get your extremities warmer as well. If cold impairs your riding pleasure or control, an electric vest can raise your temperature dramatically and transform an unpleasant experience back into riding fun.

Hat Trick

This article has not discussed helmets, but a good helmet is vital. A helmet is the only piece of riding equipment that can actually save your life in a crash. Even better, it can be difference between spending your life in a wheelchair sucking meals through a straw or living a normal life. I am always amazed at riders who say they are less comfortable riding without a helmet than without one. As our article on picking a helmet points out, if you spend the time and money to buy and adapt to a comfortable full-coverage helmet, it will actually make riding more pleasant by reducing fatigue and noise, protecting your eyes, sheltering you from rain and bugs, providing a controlled flow of air on hot days, making your head warmer on cold days, and keeping the wind and sun from dehydrating you. Riders who have spent the time to try a lot of helmets have all found some that fit them very comfortably, and I don't know any who are more comfortable at speeds above 45 mph, with a good helmet than without it. We have noticed at big cruiser rallies that more riders have stopped following the flock and wearing no helmets or non-DOT novelty beanies and are choosing instead to wear real DOT helmets with actual protection.

Dress to Prevent Accidents

Wearing gear that makes you comfortable and prevent fatigue by blocking wind and noise can help you ride more safely. However, there is an even more dramatic way of dressing to avoid accdents: wear bright colors. Accident causation studies have frequently noted that motorcyclists with light and bright-colored helmets and jackets are less likely to be involved in accidents. Other drivers should see us, but sometimes they don't try hard enough and sometimes the job is made difficult by glare or obstructions that obscure their view. I usually wear a bright orange helmet, and notice a difference when I am wearing something less visibile in traffic. Other drivers are considerably more likely to overlook me. A bright jacket also helps. The colors that seem to be most effective are orange, yellow, white, red and perhaps pink (though there isn't much pink motoprcycle apparel out there). Motorcyclists like the fact that dark colors don't show dirt and perhaps contributes to a bad-ass image, but bright colors are a simple, passive way of avoiding getting flattened.

Around here, new bikes show up all the time, and so does clothing. However, the bikes eventually go back, but when we find apparel we like, we hang onto it. I have a couple of jackets that I still wear that are in their third decade, and most of us have proven pieces of apparel that go along on the long rides, when space is limited and we need to have clothing we can depend on to keep the ride comfortable—and come through in a crash—under a wide range of circumstances. Hopefully, you have or will find those core apparel items too.

Your hands are perhaps the most vulnerable parts of your body, especially when it comes to motorcycling. Not only do they have to do most of the work when you're riding, but they're also totally exposed to the wind, heat and cold. And if you happen to make an unfortunate dismount, it'll be your faithful hands that instinctively reach out to break your fall.

Sure it feels good to ride withoutgloves on a summer day...for about 10 minutes. After that you're looking at a painful sunburn and the inevitable surface numbness that comes from too much wind exposure. Get some gloves, man! There are plenty of options out there that provide ventilation and protection. And forget those fingerless jobs too. The only thing they're good for is picking your nose at gas stops.

When you're looking for a hot weather glove, think airflow. Perforated leather has become the rage—and one we approve of, as long as the holes aren't too large or close together. Avoid the bargains at motorcycle rallies. The leather should be thick enough to resist tearing. Some new gloves incorporate fabric inserts to provide airflow. Any fabric that is highly breathable won't offer much abrasion resistance, but it's still a step up from bare skin. Animal hides will always offer superior abrasion resistance, and in this order: kangaroo, elk, deerskin and cowhide. Sheepskin offers great tear strength, but not abrasion resistance, which is more important. Deerskin is readily available these days, and doesn't cost big like exotic hides. It is also buttery soft and often more immediately comfortable than common cowhide.

For the purpose of safety, a glove should have as few seams as possible, especially in impact-prone areas. The junction of the thumb and forefinger should be reinforced. Extra reinforcement in the palm area is an asset for protection and comfort. Palm padding, be it additional leather, foam or high-tech gel, will also diffuse vibration. We like to see protective inserts on the knuckles and the backs of the hands, and some kind of fastening system about the wrist so the gloves actually stay on your hands if you take a tumble.

To test ventilation we rode with the gloves in winter conditions (otherwise this test would have reached you in August). Each pair was worn for approximately 15 minutes at highway speeds and then our frozen digits were allowed to thaw for approximately 30 minutes in a pair of heated gloves adapted to the bike specifically to create a control temperature. We found that airflow characteristics were immediately calculable in these circumstances, where in hot weather, they would have been more difficult to measure.

We asked the following manufacturers to provide us with their ultimate lightweight gloves. Some entries are only intended for hot weather riding, while others are more three-season affairs (a great option if you want to buy and tote only one pair, or ride in variable conditions often). Some of these gloves provide enhanced crash protection and others are waterproof as well as breathable. There's something for everyone in this collection and more than one desirable choice for those of us who prefer precise applications for specific jobs.

AEROSTICH ELKSKIN ROPER

These really are roping gloves, boys and girls, but they've been heartily adopted by hard-core motorcycle riders all over the world. Sold through the famous Riderwearhouse, the Ropers are now available in biker black for the first time. (Up until now they've come in only cowboy tan.) And they're made of real elk skin, which is proven to offer more abrasion resistance than cowhide or standard deerskin. There's no ventilation to speak of, no padding or hyped-up buzzwords such as Kevlar or Gore-Tex sewn in here. Just skin. We like the Ropers though, and have worn them steadily over the years in just about every season. They are a bit too hot for those triple digit days (especially when you have a ventilated alternative) and don't quite cut it next to insulated gloves midwinter. But the Ropers work splendidly about 75 percent of the time. And while it's true we're big on protective features (and this option has none save its high-performance hide) we still recommend them. What can we say? The Ropers just feel really, really good. In men's sizes for only $37.

BMW AIRFLOW

Like its motorcycle designs, BMW's apparel stands apart from the competitors in functionality as well as fashion. These AirFlow gloves are a good example because it's obvious a different drummer made them. The body of the glove is made from high-quality leather, yet on the top is an innovative panel of AirTex, which is a tear-resistant "mesh-like yarn" that encourages airflow. The finger sides are perforated to further promote circulation. When we rode with these gloves the system cooled extremely well—better than any other for sheer air movement. The knuckle areas are backed with substantial ribs of foam, and the upper finger joints are likewise padded. The palm is lightly reinforced and the thumb receives a suede panel over breathable fabric, perfect for wiping summer rain from your visor. As far as we can tell these are the ultimate summer gloves, and the only pair so stylishly unique we'd leave them on the coffee table all winter. But, as always, there's a price to pay for greatness, and in the case of BMW's AirFlows (available in unisex sizes) it's approximately $79.

FIRSTGEAR MASTER

The Master gloves are very unusual in their composition, waterproof leather sealed against nylon and an outer cuff that consists of exposed nylon, trimmed with more leather around the cuff. All in the name of fashion? We think not, since Firstgear is one of the largest purveyors of quality protective gear. Inside the Master glove is a membrane of Hipora, similar to Gore-Tex in its ability to keep water at bay, while allowing sweat vapor to escape. These gloves are therefore claimed to be waterproof and breathable, although we've only had a chance to wear them in light drizzle. The soft nylon lining of the Master gloves is very inviting, and they feel cozier than a summer glove has a right to. Certainly an interesting entry, the Master gloves might be a good choice for the rainy season since they don't provide much discernable ventilation and come with a nifty suede forefinger insert for visor wiping. Available in black only, these soft, gauntlet-style gloves come in unisex sizes for a suggested $80.

HARLEY-DAVIDSON ZIP-OFF GAUNTLETS

You have to love these gloves. Even if you never zip off the long, leather gauntlets, it's like knowing you can pull that rabbit out of your hat. Harley evidently loves this particular glove too, sending it as its ultimate lightweight application, even though the company offers several dozen summer-oriented gloves. We would call the Zip-Offs a three-season glove since we've been very comfortable wearing them in temperatures ranging from mildly hot to pretty darn cold. In fact, during our test ride (Texas in early March), these lined gloves held their own as winter fare. We like the versatility offered by the removable gauntlets, and when they're cast aside, air moves readily into the gloves through the wrist openings. These gloves offer padded, ribbed knuckles for protection and reinforced palm and textured PVC panels on the fore and middle fingers and in the junction of the thumb where you grip the throttle. Selling at around $60, and available in black and men's sizes only, this is a great choice if you want one glove to do it all.

HEIN GERICKE ANZA

From the German gear manufacturer Hein Gericke, famous for its high-quality, safety-oriented motorcycle gear, comes the Anza glove. The leather on the upper hand area is dotted with tiny holes to introduce cooling air. Since this glove proved flawless in its ventilation characteristics, it goes to show that it's not the size of your holes that counts. Large holes will leave your hands dotted with sun tattoos at the end of the day, and more importantly, they're prone to tearing in a crash (and will eventually loosen and tear with just regular use). There is lots of padding on the Anzas—both sides of the knuckles and palm receive it, as well as fashionable padded strips along the backs of the hands. Fingertips are reinforced and the forefinger and middle fingers receive textured inserts to improve grip on the throttle and brake lever. The black Hein Gericke Anza gloves, which retail for a suggested $50 in unisex sizes, are made of thick yet pliable cowhide and cinch at the wrist with hook-and-loop fasteners.

HELD AIR

Motorcycle racers around the globe choose Held gloves for their protective capabilities. And while the German company commonly applies kangaroo hide to the palm of its sport gloves, this Air version uses premium cowhide instead. The top of the glove is a mix of leather and ventilated fabric, which provides so much airflow you hardly know you're wearing gloves at all. For protection the knuckle area is padded, as well as the vulnerable thumb and back of the hand. The Air gloves are held tight on your hands by means of a substantial adjustable hook-and-loop strap at the wrists (something we'd like to see on more summer gloves). This entry from Held was magnificently comfortable straight away, and the quality of workmanship is obvious upon inspection of the seams and surfaces. They're certainly not cheap at $80, but you can't go wrong with the Air gloves for dedicated summer work. Check out the Held kangaroo hide options too, imported by the company's exclusive U.S. distributor, Helimot European Accessories.

IXS STELLER

This glove is featherlight and extremely comfortable since it's made from a combination of soft nylon Keprotec and suede-like leather coated in Teflon. Best of all, these gloves are lined with Gore-Tex to protect your hands from summer downpours. This membrane incorporates microscopic pores that are too small for water droplets to penetrate, yet large enough for sweat vapors to be released. We've sampled many garments that use Gore-Tex, but they provide only questionable ventilation (mostly because leather or thick Cordura encases the membrane). The beauty of these gloves is moisture can escape through the lightweight nylon. Leather has been applied to the thumb, back of the hand and knuckle areas. Palms are reinforced with Kevlar and sizable gauntlets close with a swatch of hook-and-loop material assisted by two strands of elastic. We like the Stellers as a three-season glove, and applaud their waterproof versatility. Available in black, in men's sizes only for a suggested $70.

JOE ROCKET V-SPORT

This Canadian apparel manufacturer has turned up some big business in the American market over the last several years, and we're excited to see its line of high-quality motorcycle products expanding as a result. The V-Sports are perforated gloves, which use thicker leather than common summer swag and feature a soft fabric liner to back the perforated top of the glove and thumb which improves comfort and durability. They were comfortable immediately and no bunching was evident in initial wear. Since the leather is heavily perforated, airflow was ample and consistent, cooling the hands even at boulevard speeds. The only thing we'd worry about with these gloves is that the holes are very close together which can cause cross wrinkles and eventually some tearing. The Joe Rocket V-Sports offer individual knuckle pads and small, style-driven foam inserts for the back of the hand. The palm is padded with a vibration damping gel and the thumb/forefinger area is reinforced with suede. A mini gauntlet secures under the wrist with a small hook-and-loop strap. Available in black, the V-Sport gloves sell for approximately $50.

LATRAK AIR CRUISE

A substantial-feeling summer glove, the Air Cruise is lined with soft nylon. It features heavy perforation on the back of the hand and fingers, as well as along the underside of the fingers and upper palm. As a result there is an exhaust effect and air is more readily able to circulate through the glove. Since the breathable lining adheres to the leather, we aren't too worried about stress tears occurring as a result of closely spaced holes. These gloves have a durable feeling to them although there isn't much in the way of secondary protection for the knuckles, or even padding for the palm. Basically what you're getting is a very zoot alternative to simple-minded summer gloves. Made of supple, yet thin leather, the LaTraks feature a half gauntlet, which closes at the wrist using elastic and a panel of hook-and-loop material. The white stitching on the black leather adds a nice accent to the look. The Air Cruise gloves are available through Bell Industries for a mere $30.

OLYMPIA SPORTS PERFORATED GEL

This company creates only motorcycle gloves, and the specialization makes it very good at what it does. There are many lightweight gloves in the Olympia line, but we were most impressed with this simple summer number. Olympia uses high-quality leather for its gloves, and although the holes are close together, it's obvious the weight of the leather won't allow easy tearing. The other quality immediately evident in Olympia gloves is the workmanship. When you look at the stitching and seam placement you know serious thought and effort went into the construction. Indeed, this is a fine choice of summer glove, and the coolest quality isn't necessarily about airflow (which is plentiful). At first squeeze, the palm inserts feel like ordinary padding but what's inside is actually a high-tech gel. Having gel in the palms, instead of extra leather or foam, helps damp vibration and increases circulation so your hands don't fatigue as quickly. The gel application increases comfort significantly and can be a cure for those with carpal tunnel syndrome. We highly recommend this summer glove, available in black for a suggested $40.

ORINA MILANO

These gloves didn't score high marks for their ability to cool the hands on a hot summer day. In fact, if we were going to classify them, we'd say the Milanos are a middleweight glove—great 75 percent of the time, but lousy in extreme heat or cold. We often recommend the first pair of gloves people purchase to be a midweight, since it provides the greatest degree of versatility. And if you're shopping for such, this is a great new product. Made of extremely soft nubuck cowhide, the Milano features Kevlar in the palm and closed-cell foam to cover the back of the hand and the knuckles while the backs of the fingers receive an artistic second application of leather. The palms of these lined gloves are padded and reinforced, while a secondary layer of hide beefs up the junction of the thumb and forefinger for durability. Short gauntlets close with hook-and-loop material. Shown here in sand color, the Milanos are also available in black for a suggested $48.

ROADGEAR EURO GAUNTLETS

Soft and supple to the touch, these new leather gloves from Roadgear beg to be tried on. And on the road, the Euro Gauntlets are just as comfortable and functional as the look and feel promise. This is the only perforated glove we've seen that incorporates gauntlets—a recommended feature. Glove extensions cover the wrists and keep air from entering the jacket sleeves, saving us from those silly bracelets of sunburn and potentially reducing the amount of skin that might contact the ground. Since the gauntlets are perforated we could feel the airflow sneaking up into our jacket sleeves. Not the full blast you get when you don't have a gauntlet bridging the gap, but a registered amount that would cool sweaty skin, rather than instantly dry it. We also like the stylish placement of the ventilation, which gives these gloves a classy look. Roadgear's Euro Gauntlets are lined with a breathable material and the glove palms have been reinforced with Kevlar. An elastic band is all that secures these gloves, but it offers more tension than most slip-on systems. Available in men's and women's sizes and black only, for a miniscule $35.90.

TOUR MASTER ELITE

Ah, here's the quintessential summer glove. Lots of holes and lightweight leather. This perforated number is a wrist and fingers above your standard rally rack fare though, since the holes aren't gapping or too close together. The supple leather is high-quality and drum-dyed for suppleness and durability and since beauty is as beauty does, the Elites lock onto the wrists with wide hook-and-loop closures. The palms of these gloves have been amply padded to soak up vibration and reinforcing leather panels have been added along the outer pinky and between the thumb and forefinger to keep the soft leather from tearing in these high stress areas. As you would guess, one of the main concerns about using such lightweight leather is the simple fact it won't survive much abuse. Tour Master has gone to great lengths, however, to structure the gloves so that they can last more than one season. If you're searching for traditional summer gloves don't be fooled by the cheapies your dealer has piled up like cordwood on the front counter. This Elite option is a better bet for a mere $35 in men's and women's sizes (black only).

VANSON LEATHERS ROCKET

Some gloves don't have to offer big bells and whistles in order to be cool—and Vanson's leather Rocket gloves are without a doubt the coolest looking gloves on the market. Since this world-renowned manufacturer of high-quality motorcycle leathers refuses to use cowhide less than one millimeter thick, Vanson's Rockets are substantial in look and feel and may take awhile to break-in. These are tried and true gloves we've used for years, but mostly in mild temperatures, or with liners in the winter. The Rockets are pretty hot during peak summer days since they lack ventilation. This year Vanson is offering a new Super Rocket glove in deerskin, however, which will prove to be more of a summer glove. We fondled the suppler, lightweight Rocket at a trade show, but were unable to obtain a pair in time for this review. Both versions of the glove offer substantially reinforced palm and knuckle areas and the cool zippered gauntlet. The cowhide version sells for a suggested $99, while the deerskin version, which features an ultra-cool tan leather gusset for the zipper, goes for about $115. Both are available in men's and women's sizes.

We ask a lot from our motorcycle riding boots. They need to be comfortable enough for long rides and walks, yet sturdy enough to protect our feet during a fall. They must provide a superior amount of traction, but not wear out easily. A motorcycle boot should also protect our feet from cold wind and rain, yet not lock in moisture as we sweat our way through the summer riding season.

Here, from top to bottom, are several things you should consider before shopping for your next pair of motorcycle boots.

When considering slip-on boots, remember they are more likely to slip-off during a spill.

Many boots incorporate sophisticated membranes which claim to be waterproof and breathable. Many work well in moderate rain, but most will leak when truly challenged. In our test of 12 boots that claim to be waterproof we found Sympatex, followed by Gore-Tex, to offer the most reliability membranes.

For large or small calves, consider boots that close at the top or entirely with large swatches of hook-and-loop fastener. Uncovered zippers introduce wind and water.

Boots need to be protective yet flexibile. The best boots may require break-in, so use them before that big ride. A flexible ankle panel (ribbed or bellowed section) is a great enhancement. Engineer boots lack this since they allow room for the foot to flex.

Sport boots differ from all-around touring or cruising boots in the angle of the upper. A touring boot typically has a right angle, while sportier fare cocks forward to mimic the leg's angle while riding. Touring boots are easier to walk in since they don't cause that clumsy ski-boot effect.

We recommend some ankle protection, such as reinforcement in the upper front of the ankle, usually a plastic panel hidden between the liner and leather, as well as soft cups or pads for the anklebones).

We like reflective inserts. They should be set low on the back of the boot so your pants do not cover them.

A shifter pad will save your boot and foot from undue stress.

The welt (where the upper meets the sole) will be welded or sewn. Stitched-on soles can be replaced, but cost more. Welded soles bring down the cost and aid in water protection.

Heels are a matter of style, but we believe the ideal boot has a heel between 1.5 and 3.5 inches high. Taller heels (even cowboy-boot height) combined with footpegs, uncomfortably lock your feet into one position and won't allow for instantaneous coverage of the brake. Look for a beveled heel instead of a boxed heel, which is better for walking.

We like meaty tread patterns on oil-resistant rubber soles for good adherence both to the ground and to foot controls. Thick soles also damp vibration.

Specter Road's new boots are dead ringers for CruiserWorks' popular Tour boot, or at least that was my initial impression before pulling on the calf-high, engineer-style boots. But after a few high-mileage stints, I was relieved to discover the Canadian company's product stands on its own merits.

The No. 8401 Touring boots feature Kevlar in a full-grain leather construction that's oil-treated during the tanning process to protect your feet in all kinds of weather.

The soft leather was flexible right away, and a malleable leather joint allowed for easy foot movement on the pegs. The reinforced toecap readily slipped under the shifter (cap, heel and ankle feature Kevlar fabric). A moisture-wicking, breathable lining provided a thin layer of padding and added comfort, though I felt arch support was lacking (in fairness, Specter Road did supply me with a supplement to fit). The soles are bonded to the leather and damped bike vibration well (though they're not overly thick), and the rugged treads gripped the asphalt firmly.

The Specter Road 8401 Touring Boots felt light and comfortable on and off the bike, and I was generally pleased with them. I still consider them a bit pricey, but they're good-quality, protective footwear. Get them in black in sizes 6-14 and half sizes 6-1/2 to 11-1/2 in D, E and EEE widths for $270 (the non-Kevlar version is $215.75), including shipping and handling.

We were caught off guard when almost every Mean Streak owner we talked to asked about floorboards for the bike, since they seem out of character for a machine with a high-performance image. The problem, as owners observed, was that most of the boards they found either looked cheesy and/or had billet top surfaces, which is not very practical.

Eventually we found these HAC floorboards made in the Netherlands and imported by Planet Cruiser. The quality of the boards' cast bodies and other components is at least equal to the finish of the motorcycle. The rubber top pads fit flush, and the bodies and undersides are smoothly polished. We got the long (10.5 inches) boards, but they are also offered in a six-inch length. Installation took just a few minutes, requiring you to simply remove the pivot bolts from the footpegs and put the boards in their place. Once installed, the boards fold up and back, which is an improvement on other floorboard installations we have seen where the boards simply fold back into the engine cases. These have more give when you drag them in the corner than such boards, though if you fell on them or kicked them up hard they would strike and nick the engine covers. The shift lever worked perfectly without adjustment, though you'd have to add a rear extension lever if you wanted to upshift with your heel. The angle and location of the floorboards was perfect for those who rode with them.

The boards are also solidly made. They mount snugly and don't rattle around or wiggle in their mounts, even after a couple of thousand miles. The rubber top pads show no signs of wear, and replacement rubber pads are available. The HAC boards draw admiring comments and questions about where to get them. Planet Cruiser sells the long boards for $205, with six-inch boards, which can also be used as matching passenger boards, available for $165. These floorboards are also available for the Honda VTX-C models. If you are member of an owners club, Planet Cruiser offers a substantial discount (25 percent on many items).

By now, four days after the event, at least 97% of the world's population must know that California's celebrity governor had a minor motorcycle accident on January 8, 2006. Almost that many have probably heard that Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger didn't have a motorcycle license at the time of the crash but escaped a citation because of a loopy loophole in California law that lets you ride a sidecar with just a driver's license to operate a car.

Perhaps the Governator's convincingly performed mea culpa for never having a motorcycle license and his promise to get one will end the media's interest in the event, but there are a lot of issues that have been largely ignored. There are also some lessons to learn or recall.

Basic Motorcycle Safety

If you missed the reports, here's the thumbnail. On a Sunday afternoon, Gov. Schwarzenegger was riding his sidecar-equipped Harley down Mandeville Canyon Road, a winding, two-lane, dead-end residential street in an affluent Los Angeles neighborhood. His 12-year-old on was in the sidecar. A car pulled out in front of him (most reports say it backed out.) The Governor was unable to stop or avoid and hit the car. Both he and his son suffered minor injuries. Schwarzenegger sustained a cut lip that required stitches. (One website suggested that there really was no traffic accident, that the crash story was just a coverup to conceal what really happened—his "collegen filled lips exploded.")

For years, safety experts have been telling us to make ourselves and our motorcycles conspicuous. One study found that simply wearing a white helmet instead of a black one could lower your crash risk by 24%. However, photos of the Governor's sidecar rig show an olive-drab Harley and matching sidebar with mock-military markings. It's a color-scheme that, especially when combined with the blacks and browns that Schwarzenegger likes wearing when he rides, makes a motorcycle hard to see, especially in the leafy environs of Mandeville Canyon. If he'd painted his bike and helmet yellow instead, that other driver who interrupted his ride would have had a much better chance of seeing him. Running the Harley's high beam would also have made him much easier to see approaching.

Like many other celebrities, Schwarzenegger likes open-face helmets, presumably so he can be recognized. Photos of Schwarzenegger show that he prefers shorty or half-helmet designs. However, if he'd been wearing a full-face helet, it probably would have prevented him from cutting his lip. Hopefully, he at least provides his kids with full helmet coverage when they are riding with him. The added benefits of the full-face helmet's extra coverage are well documented.

Proper Licensing
Harley Davidson sidecar right side view unattached
A few companies, like Harley and Ural, offer accessory sidecars. The bike needs to be properly set up for the sidecar to handle properly.

Although different sections of the California vehicle code have conflicting language, Schwarzenegger was apparently riding legally when he hit the car because he was riding a three-wheeled vehicle, which in California only requires that you have a license to drive a car. However, less than three years before, he had another crash, rear-ending a car on a two-wheeled Harley. He had no license then either. One wonders why he wasn't cited then. I presume it was because of his celebrity.

However, letting him slide after he slid into the back of that car didn't do the actor any favors. Research clearly shows that unlicensed riders, experienced or not, are more likely to be involved in an accident and more likely to die riding than licensed riders. In addition, riders who have crashed recently are more likely to crash again. Perhaps a citation or two who have made Schwarzenegger give riding a bit more thought and take it more seriously.

Sidecars Are Not Safer
1914 Harley Davidson sidecar right side view
Harley has been offering sidecars since 1914. Back then cars were not mass-produced and therefore were expensive, so motorcycles were popular forms of modern transportation and being able to transport the faimly and cargo was important. Photograph courtesy of the Harley-Davidson Motor Company Archives.

People tend to assume that sidecars are safer, probably because they don't tip over as easily as a two-wheeler or the enclosure of the sidecar appears to offer some protection. And they are a bit less of a handful on ice or snow than a single-track vehicle. But as famed motorcycle-accident researcher Hugh H. Hurt Jr. pointed out to the authors of an article in the Los Angeles Times, in most situations they aren't as safe as a regular motorcycle.

The dynamics of a sidecar are totally different than a motorcycle's. When you brake, it turns away from the sidecar. Under acceleration, the drag of the sidecar makes the rig turn into it. Turn into the sidecar, and it tries to lift. Turn hard enough, especially with an empty sidecar, and it will flip over. However, you can turn away from the sidecar very hard, until the tires slide. These sort of maneuvers require much more steering force than a two-wheeler.
Harley Davidson servicar front left side view
Probably the most popular trike of all time was Harley's Servicar. They ride differently than motorcycles or sidecars. Photograph courtesy of the Harley-Davidson Motor Company Archives.

When you have to swerve or brake hard and quickly in an emergency, a sidecar becomes quite a handful. If you want to swerve hard, you have to quickly apply a lot of muscle, but not too much if you swerve toward the side where the ‘car is mounted. Panic braking requires you to muscle the steering to keep stay straight. And you can't rely on the two-wheeler's old fallback escape route between lanes of cars. A sidecar's width gives it few more escape lanes than an automobile.

After the accident, the Governor jokes that "I knew if I would turn left, that the Republicans would get mad. And if I turned right, my wife would get mad, so I just crashed right into the car." In fact, with the right-side sidecar that he was apparently riding, turning sharply right while braking hard would have been quite difficult, especially with someone in the sidecar.

If you are going to ride a sidecar (or a trike), a motorcycle training course won't give you the information and skills you need. Except for engine operation, sidecars and trikes are completely different beasts than motorcycles. They are also fairly different from each other. A sidecar is asymmetrical. The symmetrical trike has somewhat different issues. When you consider that fact, California's decision not to require a motorcycle license to operate a three-wheeler actually makes sense. Because the three-wheeler-riding population is so small, it would be hard to advocate a special licensing and training system (or systems) for them. However, at the least, the state could create an M3 license and require potential sidecar and trike operators to show they can safely and smoothly negotiate the simple, low-speed motorcycle pattern available at most DMV offices.

Instead, prospective sidecar or trike rider should contact the trike's builder or an organization like the United Sidecar Association, which can direct you to resources directed toward sidecar users. You should plan to ride one before you buy and if possible go through some sort of training or at least arrange it after you buy. You should also find a local dealer in your area, especially if you buy a sidecar, since they require special set-up and rigging.
1942 Harley Davidson with sidecar rear left side view
Sidecars were once popular with the military as affordable mobility that offered more load capacity than two-wheeled motorcycles. Photograph courtesy of the Harley-Davidson Motor Company Archives.

I used to own a sidecar, but got rid of it when we decided to have kids. I expected that kids would want to ride in it, and, even though I felt comfortable carrying them on a two-wheeled motorcycle, I didn't want them on the street in a sidecar. On one vacation the whole family rode around rural Wisconsin in a Harley sidecar. The kids loved it and wouldn't even get into a friend's car when it started raining (although my wife did). For about two years they pleaded with me to get a bike with a sidecar, but I never gave them any hope.

Sidecars are a unique experience in a wacky, off-center (literally) way. Dogs love them and they draw attention like no other vehicle. However, they need to be approached with care and specialized preparation, which means more than motorcycling expertise, and, no, bodybuilding, acting, and politics won't help either.

A document being called "the most comprehensive in-depth data currently available for Powered Two Wheelers (PTWs) accidents in Europe" has been published by the European motorcycle-industry organization that funded it. Officially titled Motorcycle Accidents In Depth Study (MAIDS), the reposrt is based on investigations of 921 motorcycle accidents (including 103 fatality accidents) from study areas in France, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, and Spain.

Because the MAIDS team used the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) methodology for on-scene in-depth motorcycle accident investigations, the report provides the sort of comprehensive results rarely seen in motorcycle safety research, and not available for North American motorcycle accidents since the Hurt Report of the early 1980s. Incorporating the OECD methodology also maintained a consistency between the groups conducting the accident investigations for MAIDS that permits the data to be compared directly with that of other researchers who use the same system, such as a Honda-funded study conducted in Thailand a few years ago.

The MAIDS researchers collected exposure data, that is, information about riders who did not crash in similar locations and situations, which permits researchers to explore how operators of vehicles that crash are different than the control group that does not crash. In the words of the MAIDS authors, "This exposure information on non-accident involved PTW riders was essential for establishing the significance of the data collected from the accident cases and the identification of potential risk factors in PTW accidents. For example, if 20% of non-accident involved PTWs in the sampling area were red, it would be significant if 60% of those PTWs involved in an accident were reported to be red, suggesting that there is an increased risk of riding a red PTW. On the other hand, if none of the PTWs in the accident sample were red, it would be an interesting finding, needing further study."

MAIDS was funded by the Association of European Motorcycle Manufacturers (ACEM) with support from the European Commission and other partners. We wish the American motorcycle industry would follow the lead of its European counterparts.

Although there are significant differences in the roadway structures, cultures, cars, PTWs (there were more scooters in the crashes studied than we'd expect in an American study, for example), and other factors between the European countries where the study was conducted and the United States or other places, there still seem to be many findings in the MAIDS report that are useful and probably relevant to American riders. Some of the revelevant finds we say in the report follow.

Didn't See Him

In half of the collision accidents, the driver of the other vehicle was judged to have made the primary error that caused the crash, and that driver failed to "perceive" the motorcyclist in 70 percent of the two-vehicle collisions. In 37 percent of the the accidents with a "partner," it was the motorcyclist who created the problem. As other research has concluded, drivers with motorcycling experience are more likely to see and avoid motorcyclists. The object motorcyclists most often collided with were passenger cars, so the two-vehicle accident is the major concern for motorcyclists, at least in Europe. The failure of drivers to see motorcyclists reinforces the need for motorcyclists to dress conspicuously, and in this study as in others, riders wearing dark clothing were more likely to crash than others. A recent study in New Zealand found that simply wearing a white helmet significantly reduces the likelihood of a crash.

Solo Crashes Too

Plenty of riders crashed by themselves, though. The second most common point of impact was "the roadway" itself. Yes, some of these non-collision accidents happened as the rider attempted to avoid hitting a car, but plenty of riders managed to crash all by themselves. In rural areas, over half the accidents studied happened without the involvement of another vehicle. This still leaves plenty of opportunity for serious injuries from curbs and roadside "furniture," especially those barriers intended to corral out-of-control cars. The authors note that collisions with such barriers often results in "serious lower extremity and spinal injuries as well as serious head injuries."

Mistakes Riders Make

Rider inattention was cited in 10.6 percent of the crashes. Both riders and drivers "failed to account for visual obstructions" in as many as a third of the accident. A parked truck, roadside bushes or glare can hide something, and motorcyclists need to allow for the possibility that it might be there. They also need to realize that even a small object can block a drivers view of them and adjust their lane position to be seen or accommodate the possibility that the driver might pull in front of them.

Fewer Drinkers, But They Still Crash More

Studies and statistics from other studies around the world has shown that as many as half of the crashers and motorcycle fatalities involved riders who had been drinking, but in the MAIDS research, only 5 percent of the crashers had been drinking. However, drinkers were still determinded to crash 2.7 times more frequently than sober types. Crashing motorcyclists were also more likely to have been drinking than the drivers they collided with.

You Need a License

Getting the proper license to ride what you're astride means that you are less likely to crash. Riders with no licenses or improper licenses crashed more frequently than riders who were properly licensed for what they were riding. This reiterates the conclusions of other studies from other countries, including the U.S.

Training, Experience and Familiarity Work for You

Riders who took some sort of rider training were more likely to try some sort of avoidance maneuver, such as braking or swerving. Untrained riders were more likely to sit there and crash without doing anything to prevent it. Riding experience—both total and on the bike being ridden— worked in the rider's favor, in terms of fewer crashes. A quarter (24.2%) of the accidents studied involved riders with less than six months experience. Inexperienced riders were also more likely to do something that caused the accident. As other studies have found, you are in more danger on a bike that is new to you (which is bad news for motorcycle testers—or at least an excuse).

Skills Aren't Always Enough, However

The study concludes that "73.1% of all PTW riders attempted some form of collision avoidance immediately prior to impact. Of these, 32% experienced some type of loss of control during the manoeuvre." It also noted that the accident scenarios often presented situations that, once encountered, were beyond the avoidance skills of the vast majority of street riders.

So Dress for the Crash

As with other studies, the MAIDS researchers found that helmets do a good job of protecting their users, providing they fit and fasten them properly. Since this was Europe, 90 percent of the crashers were wearing helmets, and they did a good job—when they stayed on. However, 9 percent of the helmeted riders lost their helmets during the crash, either because they didn't fit properly, weren't fastened properly, or were damaged during the crash. Other protective gear also did a good job of attenuating the most common injuries—to arms and legs—though such gear didn't prevent all injuries.

How Hard Do You Hit?

The authors note that the typical accident speed was modest. In 70 percent of the crashes, the rider hit the car or other object at under 30 mph. Of course, the severity of injuries went up with crash speed. However, speed by itself didn't turn out to be a huge factor in crash causation. The report says: "There were relatively few cases in which excess speed was an issue related to accident causation," but notes that a speed differential—going either faster or slower than nearby traffic—was a contributing factor in 18 percent of the crashes.

Danger Zones

The study found that 90 percent of all threats were in front of the riders who crashed as a result of them. This correlates with other studies, including Hurt.

Over half the accidents happened in intersections. 72% of the accidents took place in urban areas, and a motorcycle was more likely to collide with a passenger car in an urban area (64% of crashes) than in a rural area, where crashes with cars were 47% of the crashes.

Weather was deemed to be a factor in 7.5% of the accidents.

"Roadway design defects" caused or contributed to the crashes 3% of the time.

What Kind of Bikes Crash Most?

The only type of bike that was over-represented in the MAIDS data was "modified conventional street motorcycles." Engine size also didn't show up as a risk factor, which checks with other studies that have used exposure data. There were not enough bikes equipped with anti-lock brakes to draw any conclusion about their effectiveness. Of course, cruisers and choppers are less common in Europe than in America.

How About Old Guys?

Good news for typical cruiser riders: Riders aged 41 to 55 crashed less frequently than the exposure data said they should, but as with previous studies youth and enthusiasm were dangerous. Riders between 18 and 25 years of age crashed more than their fair share. In America, riders over 40 have been showing up as a larger percentage of the crash victims, and since there is no exposure data, there has been concern that they are over-represented. The MAIDS study suggests that issue is not their age, though there may be cultural or other differences that make the situation different. At least age by itself doen't make you unsafe.

But Watch That Passenger

In 9 percent of the accidents where a passenger was being carried, the passenger shifted his or her weight and thereby contributed to the accident.

Check Your Tires and Brakes

Tire failure was the only technical failure that made a real blip in the MAIDS data, at 3.6%. Brake problems were cited in 1.2% of the accidents.

The complete 173-page report can be downloaded as a PDF file from the site of the ACEM, (Association des Constructeurs Europeens de Motocycles, the European motorcycle industry organization). You can also click through the findings page by page from the main page. You must go through a free registration and confirmation process (including giving your email) for access to it.

For the first three and half decades of my riding career, I was oblivious to the hazards presented by deer and other animals on the road. Even though I ride frequently in the mountains, went to college in Wisconsin, and have ridden tens of thousands of miles in deer country, much it after dark, I had encountered one elk and a few cattle actually on the road and seen one deer. Animals simply weren't a consideration for me until one night in the coastal mountains of Southern California, when a smallish mule deer leapt down onto the road from an embankment on the right. I hit it at about 40 mph just as it landed, punting it across the road and down a steep cliff on the opposite side, fortunately without crashing. Around that same time, a coworker from Sport Rider hit another deer at a higher speed, splitting the deer in two and crashing. The rider walked away mostly because he was wearing good protective gear and a lot of it.

Since then, I've had increasingly frequent deer encounters, so far without further contact. In November, riding on a road in the eastern Sierra Nevada mountains just after the sun went behind them, I was almost hit by a deer bouncing off the front of an oncoming SUV. The other driver and I both stopped and pondered about how to stop the suffering of the animal, but it died before he could carry out the idea of running over its head. Less than a mile up the road, I came upon two more deer simply standing on the road. They didn't move as I approached, and I stopped about 50 feet away. After I honked and revved my engine, they finally got off the road. Months before (fortunately in a car), I had encountered a big mountain lion on the same road after dark. It seemed quite willing to challenge the car for the road and was in no hurry to leave, even when we stopped 20 feet away.
The deer detector "sees" animals using infra-red sensors.

Anyway, during the last few years, my awareness of animals, particularly deer, has risen, as has my interest in avoiding them. This seems to have coincided with a general increase in the deer population nationwide and a resulting rise in collisions with deer. People spend more time in rural areas, since more people are moving out of cities. There is a deer-vehicle crash every eight minutes in Michigan. Of course, deer aren't only animals vehicles hit. During the past year, I have read of motorcycle collisions involving moose, bison, cattle, dogs, and other animals, but deer are the most common impact points. In a few areas, deer collisions outnumber all other accidents. About 150 Americans a year die as a result of 700,000 collisions with deer, which reportedly cause over a billion dollars in damage.
A lighted sign warns motorists of the animal's presence.

A disproportionate number of those fatalities are motorcyclists. The Wisconsin DOT site devoted to the deer problem says that while only 2% of car-deer collisions were fatal to humans, 84.9% of the motorcycle-deer crashes involved human fatalities. (This percentage has increased in recent years.) The deer do even worse. Wisconsin also sponsors the Deer-Vehicle Crash Information Clearinghouse (DVCIC), which has a variety of information on the topic.

The DVCIC site also looks at a number of strategies for reducing deer-vehicle collisions (DVCs) including fencing, roadside repellants, reducing deer population through hunting and other means, managing roadside vegatation, in-vehicle warning systems, alternatives to road salting (which attracts deer), and other ideas, but there is not a lot of encouraging information

At the moment there is no clear method of avoiding those accidents short of staying at home under the bed. (And one Minnesota reader has told me that he simply does not ride at night because of the deer issue.) One company as created a deer-detector that flashes lights when deer are sensed near that section of road, but the device is new and probably too costly for widespread deployment. Roadside reflectors seem to have some promise, perhaps because the reflected light causes deer to freeze before they reach the road. Deer whistles? So far, there isn't much research that supports their use, but they don't hurt or cost much either. There is a discussion of the studies that have looked at deer whistles on this page, which found some that even indicate a slightly negative effect from whistles.

I started doing research and asking people who drive a lot at night in deer country for their advice. Some of it was familiar, but I picked up some fresh pointers too.

# Deer travel in groups. One deer means there are probably more, so even if the one you see is off the road and going away, slow way down immediately.

# Heed deer-crossing signs, particularly in the seasons and times of day when deer are active. Slow down, use your high beam, and cover the brakes.

# The Wisconsin DOT says that deer collisions peak in October-November, with a smaller peak in May-June. Such crashes between April and August are most likely to occur between 8 pm and midnight. Between November and January, 5 to 10 pm were the danger times.

# Additional good, powerful driving lights are worth their weight in gold on a deserted road at night. Alternatively, fit a bulb with a 100-watt high-beam.

# Noise—a horn, revving your engine, etc.—may drive deer away. (Don't count on it though. My son and I recently went out to plink not far from that Sierra Nevada road, and after we set up, a doe and fawn appeared perhaps 30 yards away between us and our targets. I figured they would be gone at the first gunshot, so we fired it in a different direction. They didn't move then or when we fired into the tree above them several times, dropping debris around them. We finally had to shoo them away.)

# Flashing your headlights may break the spell that seems to cause deer to freeze.

# Deer and other wild animals are designed to be hard to see. Aside from the flickering white tail of some species or reflection from an eye, they simply disappear. However, this absence of reflected light can also tip you off. A "hole" in a white fence or wall or "missing" roadside reflectors at night might be an animal. A reflector that "blinks" might also indicate an animal passing between you and it.
A bison threw a Harley and its rider into the air when the rider tried to pass through a herd crossing a road.

# Don't challenge large animals by approaching them. A buffalo, moose, elk, mountain lion, bear, or large deer might attack to drive you off. Stay away and consider turning and riding farther away. A rider and his Harley were thrown high into the air by a bison last summer when he tried to ride through a herd crossing a road.

# If an animal has been injured, stay away. It may attack or injure you unintentionally if it comes to and tries to escape.

# If a collision appears imminent, do not swerve. Braking hard right up to the point of impact is good, but you want to be stabilized if you do collide, which will give you the greatest chance of remaining upright.

# If riding in a group, spread out. This will keep one rider who hits a deer from taking other riders down with him.

# Wear protective gear. As with other crashes, no one plans to hit an animal. The only way to be ready when it happens is to be ready on every ride. Wearing a helmet for a relaxing evening ride may seem unnecessary, since you are taking it easy, but the deer won't care. A few years ago, a rider told me of a deer leaping over him and catching him hard enough with a hoof to leave a significant gouge in the side of his helmet and wrench his neck a bit. That rider was very pleased he was wearing a good helmet. A collision with a deer that leaves you lying injured or unconscious in the road is also one of those occasions when you will appreciate reflective material on your gear.

A reader, Joe Cyr, of New Hampshire offered the following insights after he saw this story:

On June 26, 2003, I lost a friend, Eugene Levesque, to a moose-motorcycle collision between Van Buren and Grand Isle, Maine on US Route 1. His wife was critically injured but survived. I believe that he was third or fourth in a group of five motorcycles traveling below the speed limit at night.

There is no panacea for alleviating this problem. Short of not driving these roads at night or riding at speeds less than 35 to 40 mph, only with an extremely heightened sense of awareness can one react in time to minimize the effects of a collision.

A moose can weigh over 1200 pounds. Their coloration "sucks" the light and they appear invisible in the dusk and night hours. Unlike deer, rarely does one see the reflection of their eyes in a headlight beam. They usually react to oncoming vehicles by jumping in the road and quartering away from the vehicle across the road so their fur absorbs the light rather than reflect across the guard hairs on their coat. If you see their fawn colored haunches (the insides of their back legs), then you better be at a dead stop because you are much too close for comfort.

Interesting fact about automobile-moose collisions: if the driver never sees the moose and hits it at full speed there is rarely a fatality. The automobile front end clips the legs and the moose either rolls off the roof of the car or barely touches the car depending on the speed of the collision and the height of the car. If the driver sees the moose and panic brakes, the moose usually goes through the windshield, causing severe injury or death.

Some points to keep in mind:

# On hot muggy nights when there are a lot of mosquitoes, moose and deer head out of the woods to escape the fly bites. If you have a thick film of bugs on your eye protection, clue in that the animals are getting eaten alive and their situational awareness is impaired.

# If you are driving at night and see the oncoming headlights "twinkle", that is probably a moose or a deer legs intersecting the headlight beams. They are rarely alone and may be with young. Slow down and keep your eyes open.

# During the spring time, deer and moose congregate along side of roads to lick the salt applied during the winter months to control road ice.

# Watch for dips in a road where the surrounding land is swampy or a brook crosses under the road. These are usually trails used by animals. Transportation departments are getting better at labeling animal crossings but usually as a result of tragic animal collisions at that location in the past. It is a sobering thought to realize the price that was paid for the DOT to incur the expense of installing and maintaining that sign.

# Small animal motorcycle collisions with raccoons and porcupines can also be deadly. A fast-moving motorcycle with the brakes locked is a recipe for disaster. A glancing hit can veer a motorcycle off the road. These animals are low and have a round body structure that doesn't "crush," causing the body to roll under an undercarriage. You will have to replace those tires after striking a porcupine!

# Finally, there is the skunk. You don't want to slow down close to one, they will let you know that they are not happy that you invaded their personal space.

Deer accidents continue to increase. Let's leave them for the cars.

About once a month a report appears on my desktop courtesy of the Oregon Department of Transpor-tation. Its formal title is the Updated Motorcycle, Moped and Scooter Fatalities Report. It's an archive of last rides—a sterile and cryptic assessment of all fatal motorcycle crashes year-to-date, each one as witnessed through the eyes of the investigating police officer. I scan the report—date, time of day, location, presence of alcohol, weather condition, helmet and endorsement. I pause over the description.

# MC vs. auto; motorcycle doing very high-speed wheelie on Stark St., 80-yr.-old woman pulled out; motorcyclist struck auto. Died at scene.

All states collect fatality data from traffic-related crashes that occur on public roads. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) compiles this data annually in the Fatality Analysis Reporting System (FARS) database. Facts are analyzed, conclusions drawn and reports issued—and every January 1, the process begins anew.

# Single vehicle—lost control, slid across oncoming lane, hit curb and retaining wall near tunnel. Borrowed bike, 600 Yamaha, DOA, passenger died two hours later.

The 2001 FARS report indicates that 3181 motorcyclists were killed and an additional 60,000 injured in traffic crashes across the country, an increase of 10 percent and four percent, respectively, from the previous year. The 40-and-older age group accounted for 40 percent of all motorcyclist fatalities. And what were they riding? Look around—big bikes (more than 1001cc) carried almost two-thirds of the fatalities involving riders 40 and over.

This is not to say that younger riders aren't involved—the 20- to 29-year-old group has the highest number of fatalities among all age groups, bringing the mean age of motorcyclists killed in '01 to 36.3.

So what's taking us out? According to the FARS, multiple-vehicle crashes accounted for 54 percent of the deaths in '01. Seventy-five percent of those were frontal impacts—only six percent were struck in the rear. This shows that most crashes develop from hazards right in front of us. It pays to be vigilant and watch where we're going!

# MC vs. auto. Motorcycle rear-ended Jeep waiting to turn left. Another motorcycle missed Jeep.

The remaining 46 percent of deaths can be attributed to single-vehicle crashes. In almost half (41 percent) of these crashes the motorcycle operators were intoxicated.

# Single vehicle—motorcycle attempted to pass semi on right side, went off shoulder, hit road sign. Alcohol was a factor in this crash.

Oregon's portion of the FARS report differs from the national perspective. That is to be expected, since each state has differing rules, regulations, climates, riding populations and urban/rural conditions. Oregon has more rural road crashes, with the majority being single-vehicle crashes. Tragically, most of these occur in corners.

# Single vehicle—lost control, left roadway on curve, hit power pole.
# Single vehicle—lost control on curve, went over embankment. Dead at scene.
# Single vehicle, missed 90-degree corner and landed in ditch. Left 37-ft. skid mark in attempt to stop. Helmet came off during crash.

Exploring Oregon's statistics further, I've discovered corners are a common factor in multivehicle crashes, too.

# MC vs. auto; MC rider cut inside on blind corner at speed too fast for conditions, hit BMW head-on.
# MC vs. auto; MC crossed centerline on corner, struck Ford head-on. MC rider and passenger both died at scene.
# MC vs. auto; Rider lost control on curve, too much speed, crossed center line approximately five feet over line and hit Dodge head-on.

Lacking any other evidence, it is easy to conclude that excessive speed is the cause of these crashes. Very often there is nothing else to explain the unplanned exit—no gouge marks, no signs of traction loss or mechanical failure, no other vehicle involved, no visible roadway defect or animal strike. Fellow riders accompanying the victim completed the same corner without incident. So why did these riders leave their lane? After coaching thousands of riders, from rank beginners to veteran motor officers, I'm convinced that the answer lies in the eyes. Quite simply, where you look is where you go.

I believe riders crash in corners because they override sight distance—they ride faster than they can see in time to stop, swerve or safely react when the road tightens or something unexpected appears in their paths. Typically, riders make it through the first two-thirds of the corner and then just straighten up the remainder. What rapidly comes into view is a tree, utility pole, highway sign or, in really bad cases, a rock wall, cliff or approaching vehicle. The rider's attention is distracted at the worst possible moment. His eyes lock on the object and he is drawn in that direction as if guided by wire. I've visited crash scenes where there is nothing near the impact area except for a rural mailbox that's been snapped off at the ground. The rider could have cleared it on the left or right if target fixation hadn't taken over his guidance system that day. Your eyes are your guidance system! They feed your shoulder-mounted supercomputer the critical information necessary to corner safely—speed, slope, radius, path, obstacles, etc. The only thing you have to do to begin collecting that information is face your intended path of travel.

To avoid crashing in corners, swivel your head and look through the turn. Look as far as you can, even if it feels uncomfortable at first. Position yourself toward the outside of the lane to increase your line of sight through the curve. Limit your speed at the curve's entrance until you can see the path. Begin your turn only after the clear pathway comes into view. Only then should you begin adding throttle— when you know where the road leads and what hazards exist.

# Single vehicle—rider came around curve, lost control, left roadway and hit power pole.
# Single vehicle—motorcycle lost control on curve, left roadway, struck small tree. Found next day by pedestrian.
# Single vehicle—motorcycle lost control on blind curve passing another motorcycle, hit guardrail.

I've watched riders attack corners during our track courses. At the beginning, we hold the riders to lower speeds to show them how to link turns smoothly and precisely. But when the speed-up signal appears, their cornering discipline crumbles. Rather than carving smooth, fluid turns, riders dive into turns too fast while fixating on the entrance (what they see) rather than the exit (what they don't). They turn in too soon, acquire their pathway too late and end up staring at the shoulder as they paint a border-to-border line through the turn. It's ugly. Their turn exits are precariously wide, a condition that is made worse as the subsequent corner rushes into view.

A student rider told me the other day that maneuvering his motorcycle was like "stuffing a cow through barbed wire." It doesn't have to be. A smooth rider can get through corners with much more precision, fewer disruptions and a much greater margin of safety...quicker, too.

Safe and smooth cornering starts with getting good information. Put your guidance system to use by reminding yourself to look ahead very early in the cornering process. Limit your entry speed. Enter turns at speeds that will allow you to stop or escape if the turn tightens or something unexpected blocks your path. Be careful with line selection—stay to the outside of your lane until your pathway comes into view. You can always add more throttle once the pathway is defined. The last-ride archive clearly shows that you can't always take it back.

Steve Garets is director of the Team Oregon Motorcycle Safety Program at Oregon State University. He can be reached at Steve.Garets@oregonstate.edu.

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